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Gift  of  C.  A.  Kofof^ 


A  TRIP  TO   THE    NORTHWEST 
BY    AUTOMOBILE 


TOURING 


Yellowstone  ^ark  &  Qlctcier  Vark 


CAMPING    AND 

FISHING 
ON   THE    WAY 


%  HENRY /KLUSSMAN 
TOLEDO,  OHIO 


Copyrighted 

-by- 

Henry  Klussman,  Toledo,  O. 

1922. 


±  ^    ^    ^    ir    ^    ± 


The  long,  long  trail  is  calling  you.  Don't  you  hear  it 
whispering  from  every  vagrant  breeze?  Don't  you  feel 
it  tugging  at  your  heartstrings  and  surging  through 
your  blood?  Don't  you  know  it  leads^  to  where  the  Red 
Gods  call?  Of  course  you  do,  and  you  rebound  to  heed  the 
call,  for  the  lure  of  the  great  open  spaces  predominates 
in  the  innermost  recesses  of  your  heart. 

The  call  of  the  trail  is  a  real  call.  Throw  off  the  im- 
pediments of  civilization.  Motor  out  to  the  West.  Throw 
out  your  chest  and  breathe  the  pure  invigorating  air. 
Enjoy  the  coolness  of  summer  breezes  among  forest, 
lake  and  stream.  Look  across  green  valleys  to  rugged 
mountain  peaks,  where  mountain  sheep  pick  their  nim- 
ble-footed way  among  the  sky-land  trails.  If  you  are  a 
persistent  fisherman,  cast  your  fly  upon  the  sparkling 
waters,  myriads  of  mountain  trout  await  your  rod. 

Smoke  your  pipe  and  rest — just  rest  and  relax.  It 
gives  you  health,  hope  and  courage,  and  puts  you  in  har- 
mony with  nature. 


^^-^r^r^r^r^-^nf 


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'.m^jm  1-rM  K^M^B 


Swift  Current  Trail,  Glacier  National  Park. 


Copyright    by    Fred    H.    Kise; 


PREFACE. 

The  material  for  this  article  was  gathered  while  on  an  auto-camp- 
ing trip  during  the  summer  of  1921,  covering  approximately  7,000  miles, 
to  the  State  of  Washington  and  return,  with  side  trips  to  Yellowstone 
National  Park,  Glacier  National  Park  and  other  points  of  interest. 

The  purpose  has  been  to  inform  the  auto-tourist  planning  this  trip, 
about  the  road  conditions,  camping  grounds,  proper  equipment  to  be  taken 
along,  and  the  scenic  attractions  to  be  found  on  the  way,  hoping  it  will 
prove  of  interest  and  assistance. 

Auto-camping  has  come  to  stay.  It  has  solved  the  economics  of 
vacationing.  Each  year  sees  scores  of  thousands  of  motorists  taking  it  up 
and  finding  it  the  door  to  a  richer,  happier  and  healthier  life. 

With  a  tent  you  can  camp  in  the  heart  of  the  wilds,  when  and  where 
you  h'ke,  with  the  same  comfort  and  satisfaction  you  enjoy  in  your  home. 
It  gets  you  away  from  the  "daily  grind"  and  gives  your  tired,  overwork- 
ed, unstrung  nerves  a  rest,  bringing  you  back  with  new  pep  and  enthus- 
iasm. 

The  auto-camper  is  absolutely  independent  of  hotels  with  their  ex- 
cessive charges,  to  say  nothing  of  garage  expenses. 

It  is  perfect  folly  for  an  American  to  go  to  Europe  in  search  of  land- 
scape beauty  or  of  Nature's  wonders  until  he  has  first  seen  that  of  his 
own  country. 

Americans  by  the  thousand  annually  visit  Europe  to  climb  the  Alps, 
to  scale  the  Matterhom,  to  view  the  beauties  of  the  Rhine,  to  visit  the 
Pyramids  of  Egypt,  and  to  bask  in  the  sunshine  of  Italy,  seemingly  un- 
aware that  their  own  country  contains  attractions  of  mountain  and  glac- 
ier; forest,  lake  and  stream;  geyser  and  hotspring;  sunshine  and  scenic 
beauty  far  surpassing  those  across  the  sea. 

We  invite  tourists  to  visit  Yellowstone  National  Park  and  Glacier 
National  Park,  and  we  defy  them  to  cite  a  spot  on  earth  that  will  compare 
with  them. 

And  to  see  your  country,  to  gain  any  conception  of  its  immensity, 
resources  and  grandeur  of  scenery,  there  is  no  way  ao  effectual  as  to  visit 
it  with  an  automobile. 


THE   AUTO   CAMPERS'    EQUIPMENT 


In  extensive  tours  it  is  very  essen- 
tial that  the  auto-camper  be  properly 
equipped,  but  only  that  should  be  taken 
which  is  absolutely  necessary.  Whether 
you  take  your  equipment  for  camping  on 
the  car,  or  pull  it  behind  in  a  trailer  is 
merely  a  matter  of  opinion,  but  the 
fact  remains  that  approximately  98 
per  cent  of  tourists  carry  their  outfit 
on  the  car. 

The  trailer  may  become  a  source  of 
danger  on  the  steep  narrow  mountain 
grades,  switch-backs,  hairpin  turns, 
and  in  backing  up.  It  is  quite  expen- 
sive, compels  you  to  drag  about  five 
hundred  pounds  of  excess  weight,  and 
cuts  down  your  daily  mileage. 

In  the  selection  of  equipment,  two 
things  are  of  prime  importance, — space 
and  weight.  After  having  inade  a  pre- 
vious trans-continental  tour  and  many 
camping  trips  in  the  Northwest,  where 
we  at  one  time  resided,  and  inspecting 
the  various  outfits  used  by  thousands 
of  tourists,  we  believe  our  present  out- 
fit compares  very  favorably  with  the 
best,  and  especially  so  for  a  party  of 
five  persons,  which  we  carried.  Our 
Haynes  tourine  car  was  equipped  with 
an  outfit  as  follows: 

An  auto-tent  made  of  balloon  silk, 
with  steel  pegs  and  light  cedar  poles 
weighing  thirty-two  pounds. 

This  was  a  tourist  tent  12  x  71/2 
feet,  absolutely  waterproof  and  large 
enough  to  contain  two  double  and  one 
single  air  beds,  and  still  leave  suffi- 
cient space  to  comfortably  get  around 
in.    It  had  a  bobbinet  lace  screen  win- 


dow with  adjustable  storm  flap.  The 
fly  of  the  tent  goes  over  the  car  and 
fastens  on  the  opposite  side  so  as  to 
completely  enclose  the  tonneau.  The 
rear  wall  is  3  feet  high.  Only  four 
light  cedar  poles  are  necessary,  the  two 
forward  poles  being  jointed  to  save 
space  in  packing.  The  car  can  be  used 
as  a  dressing  room. 

The  tent  has  a  sod-cloth  which  turns 
in,  and  on  this  a  separate  ground  cloth 
is  laid,  which  can  be  taken  up  at  any 
time  and  laundered.  This  makes  the 
tent  snake  and  insect-proof.  It  is  car- 
ried in  a  balloon  silk  bag  on  the  running 
board. 

The  twcf  double  air  beds  complete 
with  blankets  weighed  thirty  pounds 
each,  while  the  single  air  bed  with 
blankets  weighed  twenty  pounds,  or  a 
total  of  eighty  pounds. 

The  air  beds  are  lined  with  felt  and 
are  inclosed  within  the  sleeping  pocket, 
which  is  absolutely  waterproof  and  al- 
so lined  with  felt  inside.  There  is  ex- 
tra material  at  the  head  for  protection 
against  rain,  if  you  should  desire  to 
sleep  in  the  open  without  a  tent. 

Having  used  folding  cots  on  previous 
occasions,  we  decided  to  try  the  Metro- 
politan Air  Beds  on  this  trip.  For  pure 
comfort  of  body  and  protection  against 
cold,  I  will  never  autocamp  again  with- 
out an  air  bed.  The  folding  cot  is  much 
colder  to  sleep  on,  the  cold  seemingly 
coming  from  beneath. 

While  camping  in  Yellowstone  Na- 
fonal  Park  in  July,  1921,  we  slept  com- 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING      7 


fortably,  while  many  who  slept  on  fold- 
ing cots  nearly  froze,  even  though  they 
had  an  abundance  of  blankets.  In  the 
Yellowstone  National  Park  during  the 
summer,  nights  are  usually  very  cold. 

A  pump  is  supplied,  with  which  to  in- 
flate the  bed,  but  the  average  lung  ca- 
pacity can  do  it  just  as  easily,  or  the 
pump  on  your  engine  may  be  used. 

The  bed  should  be  inflated  just  suf- 
ficiently to  hold  the  weight  of  the  body 
comfortably  and  prevent  it  touching 
the  ground.  There  is  no  rolling  what- 
ever. 

Therefore,  the  air  bed  is  a  prime  es- 
sential to  the  success  of  any  auto- 
camping  trip,  and  more  especially  on 
trips  through  the  Rockies,  or  in  cold 
weath  u\ 

The  double  air  bed  rolls  into  a  bun- 
dle 42  inches  long  and  12  inches  in  di- 
ameter, depending  for  size  on  the  num- 
ber of  blankets  rolled  with  it.  The  sin- 
gle bed  rolls  into  a  bundle  26  inches 
long  and  12  inches  ra  diameter.  To 
keep  mud  and  dust  off,  they  are  wrap- 
ped in  waterproof  khaki  and  strapped  to 
the  running  board  or  carried  on  the 
running  board  inside  adjustable  lug- 
gage carriers,  just  as  you  prefer. 

A  two-burner  gasoline  Auto  Kamp 
Kook  Stove  is  indispensable.  We  have 
used  one  on  innumerable  occasions, 
and  can  highly  recommend  it  as  the 
most  efficient  means  of  getting  up  a 
Quick  meal.  It  is  about  the  size  of  a 
small  suit  case,  folds  up,  and  has  a  car- 
rying handle.     It  weighs  8V2  pounds. 

One  of  the  most  important  parts  of 
^he  equipment  is  a  refrigerator  basket. 
In  it  you  carry  ice  cream,  milk,  butter, 
meat  and  drinks  and  keen  them  cool 
and  fresh  at  all  times.  They  come  in 
various  sizes — ours  was  21  inches  loner, 
30  inches  wide  and  12  inches  high.    It 


can  be  replenished  with  ice  whenever 
necessary.  It  is  carried  on  the  running 
board,  weight  10  pounds. 

Extra  wool  blankets  and  clothing 
should  be  wrapped  in  an  Auto  Blanket 
Roll  made  of  waterproof  khaki  and  se- 
cured with  straps.  A  duffle  bag  should 
be  carried  along,  in  which  are  packed 
the  cooking  utensils,  first-aid  kit,  hand 
axe  with  sheath,  soap,  towels,  folding 
canvas  wash  basin  and  bucket,  light 
rubber  waders,  bulk  food,  etc.  Camera, 
binoculars  and  thermo  bottles  are  car- 
ried inside  the  car. 

An  electric  light  with  extension  cord 
to  fasten  to  dash  socket,  for  camp  illu- 
mination, will  also  come  in  handy.  A 
flash  light  should  also  be  taken  along. 
Goggles  for  the  protection  of  the  eyes 
against  the  glare  of  the  sun  add  to  the 
pleasure  of  the  trip. 

We  also  were  equipped  with  a  roll-top 
lunch  table.  It  weighs  only  10  pounds 
and  has  a  size  of  31  x  31  inches.  It 
rolls  up  in  a  bundle  31  inches  long  and 
6  inches  in  diameter.  Two  suit  cases 
carried  in  the  car  will  take  care  of  other 
things  needed  on  the  trip.  The  total 
weight  of  the  whole  equipment,  togeth- 
er with  extra  clothing,  amounts  to  ap- 
proximately 225  pounds. 

The  cooking  utensils  should  consist 
of  aluminum,  cups  without  handles  that 
fit  within  each  other,  plates,  coffee  pot 
and  two  skillets  with  detachable  han- 
dles, and  one  kettle — all  of  which  fit  to- 
gether in  compact  space. 

Of  course  you  must  not  forget  your 
fishing  rod  and  tackle,  as  it  will  afford 
you  much  sport. 

Clothing  should  be  selected  with 
great  care.  For  both  men  and  women, 
riding  breeches  or  those  built  on  the 
lines  of  the  soldier's  breeches  are  best. 
The  Daixbak  outing  breeches  are  ex- 
cellent, they  are  double  at  the  seat  and 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


knee,  are  durable  and  comfortable.  The 
legs  lace  in  front  from  ankle  to  knee, 
and  leggings  or  puttees  with  ordinary 
lace  shoes,  or  wool  socks  and  high-top 
boots  should  be  worn. 

A  khaki  wool  shirt  is  worn  with  the 
breeches.  For  girls  a  middy  blouse  may 
answer  the  purpose. 

For  the  coat  we  prefer  the  Norfolk 
Duxbak  Jacket  for  both  men  and  wom- 
en, which  is  purposely  made  to  wear 
with  the  riding  breeches  of  the  same 
make.  It  has  a  belt,  and  roomy  pockets 
are  located   almost   everywhere. 

A  cap  or  hat  to  match  completes  the 
outfit.  The  ladies  should  be  careful  not 
to  take  high-heeled  shoes  on  the  trip. 
A  wool  sweater  for  each  member  of  the 
party  is  most  essential,  and  Mackinaw 
coats  also  will  be  found  comfortable  in 
the  Rockies. 

Each  person  should  have  at  least 
three  union  suits,  one  of  which  should 
be  heavy  wool.  Light  wool  socks  also 
should  be  taken  along.  Whatever  you 
do,  don't  take  your  best  clothes  on  an 
auto-camping  trip.  Leave  them  at 
home  where  they  belong. 

After  traveling  westward  from  Chi- 
cago, you  will  find  75  per  cent  of  the 
tourists  dressed  in  khaki  shirt  and 
breeches,  both  men  and  women  alike. 
You  see  them  on  the  streets  of  every 
town  and  city,  in  high-class  cafes  and 
in  motion  picture  theatres  during  the 
traveling  season.  You  will  find  every 
facility  to  keep  clean  and  comfortable, 
as  free  tourist  camps  are  scattered  all 
over  the  West.  They  are  found  in  ev- 
ery city  and  village  and  many  are 
eauinped  with  every  convenience,  such 
as  shower  baths,  laundry,  kitchen,  and 
electric  lights. 

Plan  your  work  in  making  and  break- 
ing camp.  Let  each  person  have  cer- 
tain work  allotted  to  him  and  do  his 
share.  When  breaking  camp,  always 
see  that  the  weight  is  evenly  distribut- 


ed and  that  everything  has  its  proper 
place.  Select  your  camp  site  for  the 
night  in  plenty  of  time.  If  a  tourist 
camp  is  not  in  the  immediate  Vicinity, 
stop  in  a  school  yard,  or  some  conven- 
ient place  on  the  roadsidv.  In  several 
states  the  law  provides  that  school 
yards,  and  even  buildings,  are  property 
of  the  public,  and  under  the  meaning 
and  intent  of  the  law  it  is  perfectly 
right  to  pitch  your  tent  here.  Here, 
also,  is  to  be  found  a  pump  and  usually 
?ood  drinking  water. 

After  thq  place  has  been  selected, 
two  or  three  persons  in  the  party,  all 
co-ordmated  in  tasks  to  do,  can  put  up 
the  tent,  inflate  the  air  beds,  snd  get 
things  in  a  homelike  condition  in  about 
thirty  minutes. 

If  you  are  planning  on  touring  the 
great     stretches     of     the     Northwest, 
where  the   "going"   is   heavy   and   the 
grades  steep,  be  sure  your  brakes  are 
in  good  shape.  Before  starting  see  that 
your  motor  is  in  good  condition.       If 
necessary,    have    the    carbon   removed, 
valves  reground,  and  motor  tuned   up 
Replenish  the  oil  in  the  crankcase,  dif- 
ferential, and  transmission  and  grease 
the  wheels.       The  extra  inflated    tire 
you   carry  on  the  rim  and   one   extra 
tube,  together  with  patches,  cement  and 
one  shoe  and  boot,  will  be  found  suf- 
ficient for  the  trip.       The  idea  is   to 
keep  the  weight  down.  There  are  gar- 
ages  and   gasoline   service   stations   to 
be  found  at  short  intervals  along  the 
route,  and  it  is  unnecessary  for  you  to 
burden   yourself  with  too  much   stuff. 
The   usual   tool   equipment  that  comes 
with  the  car,     and  a  pair     of  chains, 
should  be  taken  along.     A  good  spot- 
light and  a     contrivance     to  keep  the 
windshield  free  from  rain  while  driving, 
are   very  important.     Strap   fasteners 
bolted  to  the  running  board,  or  adjust- 
able   luggage    carriers,    complete    the 
equipment. 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER  PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING 


THE  AUTO-CAMPING  TRIP 


Early  on  the  morning  of  June  15th, 
1921,  we  left  Toledo,  Ohio,  traveling 
westward  toward  the  land  of  the  "set- 
ting sun."  The  route  passed  through 
Wauseon,  Bryan,  and  South  Bend  to 
Chicago. 

Seven  miles  east  of  Valparaiso,  In- 
diana, we  drove  int3  a  school  yard  and 
pitched  our  tent.  This  was  our  first 
camp,  and  it  took  but  a  few  minutes  to 
get  everything  in  comfortable  shape  for 
the  night.  While  we  were  at  dinner, 
a  light  truck,  on  fire,  rumbled  past,  go- 
ing down  the  road  with  a  load  of  chick- 
en. People  suddenly  seemed  to  appear 
from  every  direction,  many  chasing  it, 
while  others,  yelling  and  gesticulating, 
tried  to  intercept  it,  and  finally  suc- 
ceeded in  halting  the  driver.  As  luck 
would  have  it,  we  had  a  small  fire  ex- 
tinguisher with  us.  The  fire,  which 
had  caught  from  the  muffler,  was  soon 
extinguished,  not  much  damage  having 
been  done.  After  thanking  us  proper- 
ly the  driver  continued  on  his  M^ay. 

We  resumed  our  dinner,  and  then, 
being  slightly  tired,  crawled  into  bed. 

The  next  morning,  after  a  refreshing 
sleep  and  a  good  breakfast,  we  broke 
camp,  packing  everything  in  its  proper 
place,  and  started  for  Valparaiso.  Here 
we  replenished  our  gas  and  oil,  paying 
22.2  cents  per  gallon  for  gasoline.  We 
found  gasoline  cheaper  in  Valparaiso 
and  Chicago  than  anywhere  else  on  the 
trip.  The  price  runs  all  the  way  from 
27  cents  to  30  cents  per  gallon  in  the 
western  part  of  South  Dakota  to  31 
cents  at  Livingston,  35  cents  at  Gardin- 
er, 45  cents  in  Yellowstone  Park,  50 
cents  in  Glacier  Park,  and  27  cents  at 
Spokane.  Oil  increases  from  25  cents 
per  quart  in  Indiana  to  40  cents  per 
quart  in  Montana. 


We  continued  our  drive  of  50  miles 
to  Chicago,  entering  the  city  by  way  of 
its  magnificent  boulevards,  passing  the 
South  Shore  Country  Club,  thence 
through  Jackson  Park  and  Washing- 
ton Park,  soon  arriving  on  Michigan 
Boulevard,  which  we  followed  to  Jack- 
son Boulevard. 

Starting  at  Jackson  and  Michigan 
Boulevards  at  10:00  a.  m.  we  traveled 
west  on  Jackson,  curving  to  the  right 
through  Garfield  Park  and  out  on  Wash- 
ington Boulevard  to  the  end,  a  di'^tance 
of  19.6  miles;  left  one  block  and  west 
on  Madison  St.,  crossing  the  Des 
Plaines  River  into  Maywood,  then  turn- 
ed south  on  Fifth  Ave.,  running  onto 
Roosevelt  Road.  We  traveled  west  on 
this  concrete  to  Geneva,  Illinois,  where 
we  picked  up  the  Lincoln  Highway.  We 
followed  this  highway  to  Clinton,  Iowa. 
The  distance  from  Chicago  to  Clinton 
is  148  miles,  over  as  fine  a  piece  of  con- 
crete constructed  road  to  be  found  any- 
where in  the  country,  passing  through 
DeKalb,  Dixon,  Sterling  and  Fulton,  Il- 
linois. 

After  leaving  Chicago,  it  rained  three 
consecutive  times  during  the  day.  Short- 
ly after  the  rain  ceased  we  had  to  make 
a  detour  of  one  and  one-half  miles.  It 
was  over  a  newly  constructed  dirt  road, 
soft  and  muddy,  with  short  steep  hills. 
It  took  us  exactly  one  hour  with  the  as- 
sistance of  man-power,  to  plow  through 
it,  before  again  reaching  the  main  high- 
way. We  all  were  muddy  from  head  to 
foot. 

At  Fulton  a  long  toll-bridge  crosses 
the  Mississippi  River,  connecting  with 
Clinton.  The  charge  was  40  cents.  This 
bridge  affords  an  excellent  view  of  this 
well-known  water  course.  We  bought  a 
few  supplies  in  Clinton,  and  as  the  sun 


10 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NOKTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


was  still  high  in  the  west,  we  drove  25 
miles  to  the  north  of  the  city  on  the 
road  to  Dubuque,  and  for  the  second 
time  pitched  our  camp  in  a  school  yard. 
We  drove  230  miles  during  the  day,  be- 
sides passing  through  the  congested 
traffic  of  Chicago,  which  we  considered 
extremely  good. 

They  maintain  an  excellent  public 
camp  ground  in  Clinton,  but  we  decided 
to  push  on  while  the  going  was  good. 

During  the  next  day  we  traveled  over 
some  verj'  rough  and  hilly  roads,  pass- 
ing through  Dubuque  on  the  way  to  Ce- 
dar Falls.  Here  we  found  a  fine  tour- 
ist camp  situated  in  a  beautiful  grove, 
on  the  bank  of  the  river.  It  has  every 
facility  for  the  camper,  including  water, 
shower-bath,  stoves  and  firewood.  They 
treat  you  with  every  courtesy  and  try 
to  make  your  visit  a  pleasant  one.  Here 
we  were  informed  that  had  we  gone 
straight  west  from  Clinton  to  Cedar 
Rapids,  then  north,  we  would  have  had 
excellent  roads. 

Nearly  every  city  and  village  of  the 
West  has  a  free  public  camp  ground,  to 
accommodate  automobile  tourists,  they 
having  found  out  it  is  an  asset  to  the 
community.  The  scores  of  thousands 
of  tourists  traveling  the  country,  buy 
more  or  less  of  all  the  necessities  of  life, 
purchasing  tires,  gasoline  and  oil,  hav- 
ing repairs  made  and  spending  money 
for  equipmitnt.  The  probabilities  are 
that  between  fifty  million  and  one  hun- 
dred million  dollars  were  spent  by  east- 
ern tourists  west  of  the  Mississippi  dur- 
ing the  touring  season  of  1921. 

The  following  morning  we  continued 
our  journey  to  St.  Paul  and  Minneapo- 
lis over  the  JeflPerson  Highway,  passing 
through  Albert  Lee,  Owatonna  and  Fari- 
bault on  the  way,  traveling  254  miles. 
The  weather  was  beautiful  and  the 
road  remarkably  good.  We  reached  St. 
Paul  about  4:00  p.  m.,  where  we  met 
some  old-time  friends  who  invited  us 
to  dinner.     After  a  luxurious  feed  we 


bid  them  good-bye.  and  drove  across 
High  Bridge,  which  spans  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  camped  at  the  tourist  camp 
in  Minnehaha  Park  in  Minneapolis.  Here 
they  sure  treat  you  with  true  western 
hospitality.  The  camp  was  just  started 
this  year  and  it  is  not  completely  equip- 
ped, although  there  is  water,  kitchen 
with  range,  and  plenty  of  firewood.  In 
1922,  when  completely  equipped  with 
all   modem  conveniences,   this   will   be 

one  of  the  loveliest  camp  grounds  in  the 
country.  There  is  plenty  of  shade  un- 
der the  stately  oak  and  maple  trees, 
and  the  ground  is  covered  with  grass. 
Minnehaha  Falls  is  only  a  hundred 
yards  or  more  away  and  should  be  vis- 
ited by  the  tourist. 

Minneapolis  is  the  great  tourist  cen- 
ter for  westward  travel,  and  they  have 
come  to  realize  that  it  pays  to  induce 
auto-camj>ers  to  visit  their  beautiful 
city.  Every  attention  and  considera- 
tion is  shown  the  tourist.  Here,  also, 
you  meet  tourists  from  the  Pacific 
Coast,  who  give  you  authentic  informa- 
tion regarding  roads,  together  with  the 
experiences  through  which  they  passed. 

Minneapolis  is  a  very  progressive, 
"up-to-date"  city.  Many  beautiful 
drives  and  boulevards  connect  it  with 
St.  Paul,  and  both  cities  are  surround- 
ed with  picturesque  lakes  and  fine  bath- 
ing resorts.  If  you  have  the  time  it 
will  pay  you  to  camp  in  these  beautiful 
environments  for  a  few  days.  St.  Paul 
also  maintains  a  splendid  camp  on  Cher- 
okee Heights,  a  short  distance  from  the 
west  end  of  High  Bridge. 

Two  trails  lead  westward  from  Min- 
neapolis. The  National  Parks  Highway, 
the  northern  route,  leads  through  St. 
Cloud,  Fergus  Falls,  Fargo,  Bismarck 
and  Glendive,  while  the  Yellowstone 
Trail,  a  little  farther  south  passes 
through  Ortonville.  Aberdeen,  Mobridge 
and  Mai^marth.  Both  highways  con- 
verge at  Fallon,  Montana,  then  continue 


TOURING   YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLA.CIER   PARKS-  CAMPING  AND   FISHING     11 


over  the  same  route  all  the  way  to  Spo- 
kane, Washington,  passing  through 
Miles  City,  Billings,  Livingston,  Butte, 
Missoula,  Superior,  Wallace  and  Coeur 
d'Alene  City.  After  getting  what  in- 
formation we  could  from  tourists,  who 
had  recently  traveled  over  these  two 
routes,  we  decided  to  go  west  over  the 
Yellowstone  Trail.  For  the  first  40 
miles,  this  well-marked  trail  leads 
through  a  typical  lake  country,  skirt- 
ing beautiful  Lake  Minnetonka  at  Ex- 
celsior, and  a  little  farther  west.  Lake 
Wacona,  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
lakes  in  the  State. 

Minnesota  has  the  reputation  of  hav- 
ing 10,000  lakes  within  its  borders.  The 
majority  of  lakes  are  well  stocked  with 
black  and  small  mouth  bass,  wall-eyed 
pike,  pickerel,  crappie  and  other  fresh- 
water fish.  The  lakes  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  State  also  have  muskies. 
while  the  ;streams,  afford  good  trout 
fishing. 

Most  of  the  lakes  are  surrounded  by 
forests  of  pine,  spruce  and  hard  wood. 
There  are  numerous  resorts  and  camps, 
and  the  bathing,  boating  and  fishing 
facilities  are  unsurpassed. 

Continuing  westward  from  Waconia 
the  trail  passes  through  the  great 
wheat  belt,  the  richest  agricultural  sec- 
tion of  the  State.  The  road  is  main- 
tained in  splendid  condition  throughout 
the  State  and  good  time  can  be  made. 

We  arrived  at  Ortonville  at  5:00  p.  m. 
and  remained  over  night.  Big  Stone 
Lake,  situated  here,  is  a  very  popular 
summer  resort  and  the  fishing  is  excel- 
lent. 

We  put  up  the  tent,  had  a  fine  din- 
ner, and  then  my  son  and  I  went  fish- 
ing. We  asked  the  man  from  whom  we 
rented  the  boat,  what  the  best  bait  was 
for  bass  and  he  replied,  "Frogs  and 
minnows,  but  they  take  everything." 

While  my  son  handled  the  oars,  I  as- 
sembled my  tackle,  and  decided  to  try 


a  "Yellow  Tango"  and  "plug"  for  them. 
I  was  not  disappointed  in  my  selection. 
I  cast  several  times  along  the  shore 
midst  the  lily  pads,  and  finally  succeed- 
ed in  getting  a  savage  strike. 

There  is  always  a  thrill  when  a  fish 
strikes  your  lure,  and  especially  so  if 
he  is  a  game  fighter.  I  finally  succeed- 
ed in  landing  a  four-pound  black  bass. 
We  continued  along  the  shore  and  I 
managed  to  get  two  more,  somewhat 
smaller  in  size.  Having  enough  for  a 
good  breakfast  in  the  morning,  we  quit 
and  went  to  camp.  We  unanimously 
voted  this  a  perfect  day,  and  went  to 
bed. 

Yes !  a  perfect  day,  but  the  night  was 

H- !     The  mosquitoes  pestered  the 

life  out  of  us.  I  never  in  all  my  exper- 
ience saw  so  many  at  one  time.  Their 
attack  was  in  mass  formation,  and 
against  me  in  particular.  I  had  scores 
of  intensely  itchy  wheals  covering  my 
face,  neck  and  hands.  My  face  was  so 
swollen  I  could  hardly  see.  Having  no 
Citronella  Oil  or  other  mosquito  dope, 
I  tried  lubricating  oil,  which  gave  me 
some  relief.  We  built  a  smudge  in  an 
old  tiy  can  and  placed  it  in  the  tent  for 
a  while,  then  we  closed  the  tent  and 
went  to  bed.  This  proved  quite  satis- 
factory. It  is  advisable  to  have  Citron- 
ella Oil  in  your  equipment,  as  mosqui- 
toes are  plentiful,  especially  in  Minne- 
sota, eastern  South  Dakota,  along  the 
Yellowstone  River  and  in  Yellowstone 
Park. 

In  the  morning  we  had  a  breakfast 
consisting  of  bacon,  bass,  bread  and 
butter,  and  coffee.  My!  What  appe- 
tites we  had  to  enjoy  it. 

From  Ortonville  we  crossed  the  state 
line,  entering  South  Dakota.  From 
here  to  Ortley  the  road  was  nothing  to 
brag  about,  but  from  there  on  to  Mo- 
bridge  it  was  excellent,  and  we  aver- 
aged about  35  miles  per  hour.  We  pass- 
ed through  a  country  devoted  largely  to 


12 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


live  stock  and  agriculture.  Fences  and 
trees  are  beginning  to  vanish,  and  al- 
kali water  and  sage-brush  are  making 
their  appearance.  Don't  drink  this  wa- 
ter, whatever  you  do.  Fill  your  water- 
bag  or  thermo-bottles  in  the  towns 
along  the  route,  where  good  water  is 
always  to  be  had,  if  you  make  inquiry. 

We  soon  arrived  in  Mobridge,  which 
is  located  on  the  Missouri  River,  226 
miles  west  of  Ortonville.  They  have  a 
camp  ground  in  this  town,  but  a  more 
suitable  place  is  to  be  found  just  across 
the  river.  We  bought  a  few  supplies, 
then  started  for  the  river,  a  distance 
of  about  two  miles.  Here  we  crossed 
on  a  ferry.  The  charge  is  $1.00  for  a 
car,  and  10  cents  for  each  passenger. 

About  a  hundred  yards  from  the  ferry 
landing  on  the  west  bank,  is  a  dandy 
camping  place  in  a  grove  consisting  of 
cottonwoods.  Here  also  is  a  road-side^ 
inn  that  has  accommodations  for  tour- 
ists if  necessary,  and  can  supply  you 
with  gasoline  and  oil. 

From  the  Missouri  River  Ferry  we 
followed  a  fine  road  for  a  distance  of  38 
miles  to  McLaughlin,  passing  through 
the  Standing  Rock  Indian  Reservation. 
A  small  thunder  storm  pursued  us  for 
quite  a  distance,  but  finally  gave  it  up. 

The  old  Bismarck-Deadwood  Trail  is 
crosed   at   Morristown,      Over   it   bold 


The  Great  Plains. 


highwaymen,  strange  travelers  and  pro- 
cessions moved  in  by-gone  days.  If  it 
could  but  talk,  it  would  tell  of  many 
interesting  adventures  and  thrilling  es- 
capes along  its  winding  course. 

Continuing  westward,  on  every  side 
the  plains  stretched  seemingly  limitless. 
At  times  there  would  be  no  object  to 
break  the  horizon,  then  again  through 
the  clear  air,  with  the  aid  of  field 
glasses,  we  would  get  a  glimpse  of  the 
advance  guard  of  the  Bad  Lands. 

We  entered  the  southern  part  of  the 
Bad  Lands  of  North  Dakota  a  few  miles 
east  of  Marmarth.  The  Bad  Lands  look 
lonely  and  dreary  and  are  absolutely 
devoid  of  vegetation.  The  formations 
are  made  up  of  sandstone,  shale  and 
clay,  and  erosion  has  carved  the  un- 
equally resistant  rock  into  fantastic 
shapes.  There  is  no  wood  to  be  found 
here,  and  the  few  streams  are  dried  up 
in  the  summer.  Cloudbursts  and  fresh- 
ets occur  during  the  rainy  season,  but 
the  water  only  remains  for  a  couple  of 
days,  and  everything  becomes  as  dry  as 
before. 

Having  traveled  226  miles  during  the 
day  we  decided  to  spend  the  night  at 
Marmarth. 

Here  we  were  informed  that  a  few 
days  previously  a  terrible  cloudburst 
had  occurred  west  of  the  town,  and  that 
the  bridges  had  been  washed  out.  The 
tourists  traveling  west  had  been  held 
up  for  four  days,  and  none  attempted 
to  come  through  from  Baker.  All  the 
bridges  had  been  repaired  with  the  ex- 
ception of  one  about  ten  miles  west  of 
town.  The  County  Commissioners  had 
a  man  stationed  there  with  two  teams, 
to  tow  automobiles  through  the  stream, 
so  the  next  morning  we  decided  to 
head  for  Baker. 


TOURING   YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING     13 


About  two  miles  west  of  Marmarth 
we  got  stuck  in  a  deep  mud-hole.  Ev- 
erybody got  out,  disgusted.  After  sev- 
eral ineffectual  attempts  to  pull  out, 
we  backed  the  machine  as  far  as  possi- 
ble, dug  the  mud  from  the  wheels,  and 
packed  the  hole  with  grass  and  small 
rock.  With  everybody  in  mud  up  to 
their  knees,  pushing  with  all  their  en- 
ergy, I  threw  in  the  clutch,  gave  her 
the  gas,  and  suddenly  shot  out  on  terra 
firma.  At  the  same  time  Miss  Wegman 
was  precipitated  headlong  into  the  mud. 
She  was  a  terrible  sight,  literally  cov- 
ered with  the  soft  clayey  mass.  "My! 
What  shall  I  do?"  exclaimed  Miss  Weg- 
man, very  much  exasperated.  "That's 
nothing,"  I  replied,  "wipe  your  face  and 
hands  as  best  you  can,  and  leave  the 
mud  to  dry  on  your  clothes,  it  will  come 
off  easier  later  on." 

When  we  arrived  at  the  bridge,  we 
found  the  man  with  the  teams  waiting. 
He  hooked  on  and  soon  managed  to  pull 
us  through  the  stream  to  the  opposite 
bank  and  onto  the  road.  From  here 
the  roads  were  exceedingly  bad  all  the 
way  to  Baker.  During  the  dry  season 
the  roads  through  the  Bad  Lands  are 
usually  fine. 

From  Baker,  Montana,  to  Fallon,  the 
road  passes  through  a  somewhat  broken 
agricultural  country  but  it  is  excellent. 
There  are  some  hills  but  they  are  easily 
negotiated.  At  Fallon  the  Yellowstone 
Trail  and  National  Parks  Highway  con- 
verge and  pass  o.ver  the  same  route 
westward  following  the  Yellowstone 
River  most  of  the  way  to  Livingston. 

We  arrived  in  Miles  City  at  about 
5:00  p.  m.  and  camped  there  for  the 
night.  The  mosquitoes  were  very  bad 
and  we  had  to  build  a  smudge  in  the 
tent  before  going  to  bed.  The  tourist 
camp  is  located  in  a  grove  of  trees  on 
the  bank  of  the  Tongue  River.  It  has 
every  modem  convenience. 


Miles  City  holds  an  annual  Round-Lp 
during  the  first  part  of  July.  This  is 
a  typical  frontier  show,  where  the  cow- 
boy, the  broncho  and  the  wild  steer 
again  come  into  their  own.  Several 
cities  in  Montana  have  a  Round-Up 
during  the  summer  months,  and  if  you 
should  be  in  the  immediate  vicinity  at 
the  time,  it  will  pay  you  to  attend  one 
of  them. 

Between  Miles  City  and  Forsythe  we 
had  to  make  a  bad  detour  of  about  ten 
miles,  the  serpentine  road  passing  over 
short,  steep  hills,  from  which  now  and 
then  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  Yel- 
lowstone River.  There  is  considerable 
new  construction  being  done  through- 
out the  State  of  Montana,  and  therefore 
there  were  numerous  detours.  The  main 
highway  should  be  in  fine  condition  dur- 
ing the  season  of  1922. 

We  passed  through  Billings  and 
stopped  at  Park  City  over  night,  hav- 
ing covered  188  miles  during  the  day. 
This  is  a  picturesque  little  town.  The 
valley  is  irrigated  and  considerable  al- 
falfa is  raised.  It  appears  like  an  oasis 
in  a  desert,  compared  to  many  of  the 
towns  we  passed  through  in  Montana. 
The  tourist  camp  is  situated  in  the 
town  park,  which  has  many  lofty  shade 
trees  and  velvety  grass.  Although  not 
completely  equipped,  they  promise  in 
1922  to  have  shower-baths,  laundries 
and  all  modern  conveniences. 

Just  to  the  south  of  Park  City  you 
get  a  fine  view  of  the  snow-capped 
peaks  of  the  Bear  Tooth  Range,  50 
miles  away. 

The  following  day  we  drove  to  Liv- 
ingston. Here  is  a  thriving,  up-to-date, 
typical  western  city.  It  is  situated  in 
a  valley,  completely  surrounded  by  tow- 
ering mountains,  and  is  the  gateway 
to  the  "Wonderland  of  America" — Yel- 
lowstone Park. 


14 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


We  arrived  in  Livingston  about  2:00 
p.  m.  and  here  secured  a  first-class 
meal  at  one  of  the  many  good  restau- 
rants, bought  some  supplies,  replenish- 
ed our  oil  and  gas,  and  started  for  Gar- 
diner, situated  at  the  northern  entrance 
of  the  Park.     The  ride  is  56  miles  up 


the  wonderful  Yellowstone  Valley.  We 
camped  at  the  Public  Camp  Grounds  at 
Gardiner,  retired  early  and  had  a  fine 
sleep. 


The  next   morning 
Park  at  8:30  a.  m. 


we  entered   the 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER  PARKS— CAMPING  AND  FISHING     15 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK 


The  Yellowstone  National  Park  out- 
ranks by  far  any  similar  volcanic  area 
in  the  world.  It  contains  more  geysers 
than  are  to  be  found  in  the  rest  of  the 
world  together. 

Here  are  canyons  whose  volcanic 
sides,  by  decomposition  of  their  miner- 
als, have  assumed  most  brilliant  and 
beautifully  blended  colors.  Here  are 
lakes  that  mirror  the  clouds,  and  re- 
flect the  forests  on  their  shores.  Here 
are  streams  that  wind  and  linger,  and 
babbling  brooks  that  race  on  forever. 
Here  are  geysers,  prismatic  pools,  hot 
springs  and  bubbling  paint  pots  each 
with  its  own  attractive  setting.  Here 
are  petrified  forests  with  trunks  stand- 
ing. Here  is  the  largest  and  best  game 
preserve  in  North  America,  the  animals 
of  which  are  comparatively  fearless  and 
some  even  friendly.  Here  is  the  Yel- 
lowstone River  with  its  spectacular  wa- 
terfalls and  its  colorful,  awe-inspiring 
canyon.  Here  are  beautiful  valleys 
carpeted  with  myriad  colored  wild-flow- 
ers. Here  if  one  loves  nature,  and  de- 
sires to  see  the  processes  of  world  con- 
struction, he  can  see  it  in  all  its  sub- 
limity. Indeed,  the  Park  offers  an  ex- 
ceptional field  for  nature  study. 

As  a  National  Park,  it  was  created 
by  an  act  of  Congress  March  1st,  1872, 
and  has  been  ever  since  the  wonder  spot 
of  America. 

The  Park  lies  in  the  recesses  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  in  northwestern  Wy- 
oming. It  slightly  overlaps  Montana 
on  the  north  and  Idaho  on  the  west. 
It  is  rectangular,  with  an  entrance  about 
the  middle  of  each  side.  Its  boundaries 
embrace  an  area  of  more  than  3,000 
square  miles.  It  occupies  a  high  plateau 
averaging  more  than  8,000  feet  eleva- 
tion, surrounded  by  high  mountains, 
waterfalls  and  cascades.  The  Absa- 
rokas  bound  the  east,  their  crest  invad- 


ing the  Park  at  Mt.  Chittenden.  The 
Gallatin  Range  penetrates  the  north- 
western corner  from  the  north.  The 
Continental  Divide  crosses  the  south- 
western corner  over  the  lofty  Madison 
Plateau  and  the  ridge  south  of  Yellow- 
stone Lake.  The  largest  mountain, 
Electric  Peak,  (11,555  feet  elevation) 
is  situated  in  the  northwest  corner  of 
the  Park. 

The  Yellowstone  Plateau  is  a  vast 
lava  deposit.  The  material  is  mostly 
volcanic,  but  its  landscape — its  archi- 
tecture, is  largely  glacial. 

Volcanoes  in  remote  ages,  in  and  near 
the  Park  threw  forth  enormous  quan- 
tities of  lavas,  ashes  and  cinders  which 
built  up  the  plateau  region  three  or 
four  thousand  feet  thick.  Rhyolite  and 
other  forms  of  lava  were  last  spread 
over  the  surface.  This  volcanic  activity 
appears  to  have  ended  before  the  last 
ice  age.  The  ice  age  wrought  vast 
changes  in  the  volcanic  landscape.  The 
ice  smoothed  wide  areas,  carved  can- 
yons and  rounded  mountain  sides. 

The  places  of  scenic  interest  gener- 
ally visited  are  Mammoth  Hot  Springs, 
the  Norris  Geyser  Basin,  Lower  and 
Upper  Geyser  Basin,  Yellowstone  Lake 
and  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Yellow'- 
stone  River.  All  these  points  lie  on 
the  main  circular  road  system  that  is 
traversed  by  automobiles.  There  are 
many  other  points  of  interest,  however, 
which  can  be  reached  by  hiking,  horse- 
back, or  by  means  of  packtrain  outfits. 
The  Park  season  extends  from  June 
20th  to  September  15th. 

Hotels  are  operated  at  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs,  Upper  Geyser  Basin,  Yellow- 
stone Lake  and  the  Grand  Canyon. 
Public  Auto  Camp  Grounds  are  located 
at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  Old  Faith- 


16 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


ful  Inn,  Lake  Hotel,  Canyon  Junction 
and  at  Tower  Fall  Junction.  At  the 
hotels  and  camps,  visitors  can  supply 
th^mselve^  with   fishing   tackle,   upon 

payment  of  a  small  rental.  Here  also 
may  be  had  horses  and  guides  if  you 
prefer  to  visit  the  more  inaccessible 
places  in  the  Park. 

From  the  Lincoln  Hifcliway,  the  Park 
may  be  reached  by  two  routes:  on  the 
east  from  Cheyenne,  Wyoming,  and  on 
the  west  from  Ogden,  Utah. 

The  route  from  Cheyenne  passes 
through  Chugwater,  Wheatland,  Casper, 
Thermopolis,  Basis,  and  Cody  to  the 
eastern  entrance,  the  total  distance  be- 
ing 541  miles. 

From  Ogden  the  route  leads  through 
Pocatello  and  Idaho  Falls  to  Yellow- 
stone, Montana,  the  western  entrance, 
the  distance  being  324  miles. 

From  the  Yellowstone  Trail  the  Park 
may  be  reached  from  Billings  via  Cody 
to  eastern  entrance,  a  distance  of  175 
miles;  or  Livingston  to  Gardiner,  the 
northern  entrance,  56  miles;  or  Butte 
to  Yellowstone,  western  entrance,  170 
miles. 

Automobiles  in  the  Park  are  required 
to  travel  around  the  road  system  form- 
ing the  "loop"  in  the  direction  oppo- 
site to  that  of  the  hands  of  a  clock, 
except  under  hour  regulations.  Inquiry 
should  be  made  for  reverse  directions. 

At  Gardiner,  the  north  entrance,  we 
drove  under  an  impressive  stone  arch 
bearing  the  inscription  "Yellowstone 
National  Park,  Created  by  Act  of  Con- 
gress, March  1st,  1872,  for  the  Benefit 
and  Enjoyment  of  the  People."  It  was 
built  in  1903  by  the  Government  and 
was  dedicated  by  President  Roosevelt. 
Just  inside  the  entrance  a  permit  must 
be  secured  at  the  ranger  station,  which 
entitles  you  to  operate  your  automo- 
bile over  the  roads  in  the  Park.  The 
fee  is  $7.50.    You  will  have  to  satisfy 


the  ranger  that  your  brakes  and  tires 

are  in  good  order,  and  that  you  have 

sufficient   gasoline    to   reach   the  next 

gas   station.      He  will   also   seal  your 
srun,  if  you  happen  to  carry  one. 

A  drive  of  about  four  and  a  half 
miles  up  the  Gardiner  Canyon  brings 
us  to  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  the  first 
center  of  scenic  interest. 


MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS. 

Here  are  located  the  famous  terraces, 
the  Mammoth  Hotel,  the  abandoned 
army  post  of  Fort  Yellowstone,  and  the 
headquarters  of  the  Park  Supervisor. 
The  terraces  are  immediately  soi;th  of 
the  hotel.  The  principal  ones  are  Hy- 
men, Pulpit,  Jupiter,  Angel,  Cleopatra, 
and  Orange  Spring.  Near  the  south- 
west end  of  Angel  Terrace  is  the  Devil's 
Kitchen — a  cave  which  may  be  visited. 
Another  peculiar  rock  formation  be- 
yond the  Devil's  Kitchen  is  the  mass 
of  travertine-calcium  carbonate — known 
as  the  White  Elephant  Mound. 

As  one  proceeds  over  the  sediment- 
encrusted  coating  separating  these  ter- 
races from  each  other,  he  feels  that 
only  the  thinnest  shell  intervenes  be- 
tween him  and  the  very  center  of  the 
earth.  Here,  waters  heavily  charged 
with  lime,  dissolved  from  limestone 
beds  below  and  brought  to  the  surface 
by  the  hot  springs,  are  quickly  precipi- 
tated forming  tier  upon  tier  of  white 
terraces,  which  are  beautifully  colored 
in  various  tints  of  red,  pink,  brown, 
yellow  and  occasional  streaks  of  green, 
by  the  algae  which  clings  closely  to  the 
travertine  formation  in  a  velvet-like 
covering,  and  requires  hot  or  tepid  wa- 
ter in  which  to  live.  The  water-filled 
basins  on  the  terraces  are  magnificent- 
ly carved  and  fretted,  some  being  drap- 
ed in  front  with  clustering  stalactites. 
When  the  springs  dry  up,  they  leave 
mounds  of  chalk-white  formation.  The 
colors  are  present  only  on  actiy^  ter- 
races.     When    a    spring    changes    its 


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A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY   AUTOMOBILE 


course,  the  new  basin  formed  soon  be- 
comes brilliantly  colored  by  the  algae- 
laden  water,  the  abandoned  portion 
changing  to  a  lifeless  white. 

While  the  deposits  here  are  chiefly 
lime,  those  of  the  geysers  and  other 
hot  springs  in  the  Park  are  chiefly  sil- 
ica, also  deposited  largely  by  the  algae. 
The  two  kinds  of  deposits  differ  great- 
ly The  Mammoth  Hot  Springs'  depos- 
its are  soft  and  crumbly;  the  silica  de- 
posits of  the  geysers  are  hard  as  flint. 
Without  this  hardness,  the  geyser  ac- 


great  blocks  of  limestone,  in  the  midst 
of  which  are  located  the  Hoodoo  Rocks, 

curiously  misshapen  and  fantastically 
carved  by  erosion,  lying  as  though  some 
god,  in  sport,  had  tipped  them  over.  Be- 
yond this  is  the  Golden  Gate,  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  drives  in  the  Park. 
After  passing  a  multitude  of  interest- 
ing attractions  we  soon  arrived  at  Ob- 
sidian Cliff,  about  12  miles  south  of 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs. 

Obsidian  Cliff  rises   nearly  250  feet 


Golden  Gate  and  Viaduct,     Yellowstone  National  Park. 


tion  would  be  impossible,  as  the  lime 
formation  would  not  withstand  the  ex- 
plosive violence. 

The  formation  of  Old  Faithful  grows 
very  slowly,  imperceptibly:  Even  now, 
afterl  thousands, — possibly  millions, — 
of  years,  its  mound  is  but  a  few  feet 
above  the  valley. 

Leaving  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  we 
climbed  a  steep  grade  passing  between 


above  the  road,  on  the  left-hand  side, 
and  is  a  vast  mass  of  volcanic  glass, 
glistening  in  the  sunlight.  The  greater 
portion  of  this  mineral  glass  is  black, 
rather  like  anthracite  in  appearance, 
with  here  and  there  streaks  of  red  and 
yellow.  Hot  lava  hurled  from  volcanic 
vents  or  gushing  from  cracks  in  the 
earth's  crust,  if  cooled  quickly,  results 
in  glass;  if  less  quickly,  in  glass  mixed 
with  crystals;  if  slowly  enough  all  be- 
comes crystalline  like  granite.     So,  in 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING     19 


forming  this  cliff  the  lava  must  have 
cooled  suddenly.  The  volcanic  glass  of 
this  cliff  is  analogous  to  common  glass, 
which  is  a  silicate  of  potash,  soda  or 
other  base,  except  that  manufactured 
glass  is  relatively  free  from  iron  and 
other  coloring  substances  which 
abound  in  the  lavas,  rendering  them 
dark  and  more  or  less  opaque.  Lavas, 
too,  are  usually  mixtures  of  several  sili- 
cates, while  manufactured  glass!  con- 
sists of  only  one  or  at  most  a  few.  The 
glass  of  this  cliff  is  in  vertical  columns 
of  pentagonal-shaped  blocks.  Here  al- 
so is  probably  the  only  piece  of  glass- 
constructed  road  in  the  world.  The 
river  runs  at  its  foot,  and  to  build  a 
roadway  was  quite  a  problem.  The  glass 
was  too  hard  to  be  drilled  for  blasting, 
and  Colonel  Norris,  the  engineer,  broke 
it  into  fragments  by  first  heating  it 
with  fires  along  its  surface  and  then 
throwing  cold  water  on  it. 

Just  beyond  is  Roaring  Mountain  with 
an  enormous  steam  vent  at  the  top, 
that  can  be  heard  for  a  mile. 

These  examples  of  volcanic  action 
increase  as  we  continue  our  drive 
through  the  Norris  Geyser  Basin,  Low- 
er and  Upper  Geyser  Basin.  Every- 
where are  boiling  springs,  mud  volca- 
noes, and  geysers,  too  numerous  to  de- 
scribe, steaming,  pulsating  and  spout- 
ing in  their  beautiful  basins,  displaying 
an  exuberance  of  color,  and  calculated 
to  surprise  and  frighten  by  their  hiss- 
ing, booming  and  throbbing  noises. 


THE  GEYSERS  * 

A  geyser  may  be  defined  as  a  period- 
ically erupting  hot  spring.  Were  the 
heat  sufficient  and  the  tube  long 
enough  all  hot  springs  would  erupt.  The 
geysers  vary  considerably  in  character 
and  action.  Some  erupt  at  irregular  in- 
tervals of  days  or  weeks,  while  others, 
like  Old  Faithful,  play  at  more  or  less 
regular  intervals.    The  small  ones  play 

*  Table  of  Geysers   will  be  found  on  Page   21. 


every  few  minutes.  The  water  is  gen- 
eraly  thrown  vertically,  though  some  is 
shot  through  tubes  that  He  at  an  an- 
gle. The  quantity  of  water  hurled  in- 
to the  air  varies  from  a  few  gallons  in 
small  geysers  to  thousands  of  barrels 
in  the  larger  ones,  at  each  eruption. 

The  highest  stream  is  thrown  by  the 
Giant,  which  has  a  maximum  of  250 
feet,  for  a  period  of  one  hour,  every 
six  to  fourteen  days.  This  is  the  high- 
est geyser  in  the  world.  It  hurls  aloft 
an  enormous  volume  of  water,  with  a 
fury  that  is  appalhng.  This  geyser  ac- 
tion is  picturesque  and  wierd.  It  ap- 
peals to  the  imagination. 

Old  Faithful,  is  in  most  respects  the 
most  wonderful  geyser  in  the  Park.  It 
is  very  popular  because  of  the  regular- 
ity of  its  eruption,  which  takes  place 
at  intervals  of  seventy  minutes.  It 
plays  for  four  minutes,  and  projects  its 
water  to  a  height  of  from  125  to  170 
feet.  It  gives  ample  warning  before 
each  play,  beginning  with  a  few  spas- 
modic spurts,  then  gradually  rising  to 
its  maximum.  At  the  first  warning, 
the  tourists  hurriedly  gather  around, 
but  when  the  tremendous  outburst  be- 
gins, all  retreat  to  a  safe  distance,  and 
look  on,  awe-stricken  and  silent  with 
reverent  wonder. 

The  Paint  Pots  are  curiosities.  Ihey 
are  craters  or  irregular-shaped  basins 
in  the  earth,  filled  to  the  rim  with  high- 
ly colored  thick,  hot  mud,  that  resem- 
bles paint.  There  is  a  continuous 
throbbing  and  bubbling  as  the  steam 
escapes  through  it.  The  most  important 
is  the  Mammoth  Paint  Pot  with  its  ba- 
sin measuring  40  x  60  feet  in  size.  It 
has  a  mud  rim  five  feet  high. 

Here  also  are  prismatic  pools  that 
repose  in  basins,  whose  rims  are  form- 
ed of  minerals — mostly  silica  deposited 
by  the  algae-laden  water.  All  are  pic- 
turesque and  beautiful.  Prismatic 
Lake  is  the  largest.    It  has  a  circum- 


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TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING    21 

THE  MOST   IMPORTANT   GEYSERS   AND 
SPRINGS   ARE   LISTED  BELOW 


NORRIS  BASIN 


NAME 


Black    Growler 

Constant     

Congress    Pool 

Echinus     

Emerald    Pool 

Hurricane 
Minute    Man 

Monarch      

New  Crater  .  . 
Valentine  .  .  .  . 
Whirligig-     .  . .  . 


Height 

of 

Length     of 

Intervals  between 

Eruption 

Eruption 

Eruptions 

in    Feet 

Steam    vent 

15-35 

5   to    15   sec. 

Irregular 

Large    boiling 

spring 

30 

3    minutes 

45    to    50    minutes 

.    Beautiful    hot 

springs 

6-8 

Continuous 

8-15 

15    to    30    seconds 

1    to    3    minutes   at   times 

100-125 

6  minutes 

Irregular 

6-25 

1  to  4  minutes 

?    to    5    minutes 

60 

15    to    60    minutes 

Irregular 

10-15 

10    seconds 

Irregular 

LOWER  BASIN 

NAME 

Height    of 
Eruption 
in   Feet 

Length    of 
Eruption 

Intervals'   between 
Eruptions 

Few  feet 

40 

10-40 

75 
75-150 
Basin      of     boiling 
clay 
250   by  400    feet; 
remarkable    color- 
ing 
100    feet    in 
diameter 

1   minute 

Short 

10   minutes 

45   to    60   minutes 

Continuous 

40    to   60   minutes 

3   minutes 

2   hours 

8   to   12   hours 

Mammoth   Paint  Pots    

Turquoise   Spring    

UPPER  BASIN 


NAME 


Artemisia  . . 
Atomizer  .  .  . 
Beehive     .  .  .  . 

Castle     

Daisy     

Fan    

Giant     

Giantess 

Grand    

Grotto     

Jewel     

Lion     

Lioness      .  .  .  . 

Mortar     

Oblong  .  .  .  . 
Old  Faithful 
Riverside 
Sawmill  .  . .  . 
Spasmodic  .  . 
Turban    


Height    of 
Eruption 

Length   of 

Intervals   between 

in    Feet 

Eruption 

Eruptions 

50 

2 

200 

10    to    15    minutes 

24    to    30    hours 

6   to   8   minutes 

12    hours 

50-75 

30   minuter 

Irregular 

70 

3   minutes 

80    to    90    minutes 

15-25 

10  minutes 

Irregular 

200-250 

1    hour 

6    to    14    days 

150-200 

12  to  36  hours 

10   to   20   days 

200 

15    to    30   minutes 

10   to   12    hours 

20-30 

Varies 

2   to    5   hours 

5-20 

1   minute 

5    minutes 

50-60 

2    to    4   minutes 

Irregular 

80-100 

10   minutes 

Irregular 

30 

4   to   6   minutes 

Irregular 

20-40 

7    minutes 

8  to   15   hours 

120-170 

4  minutes 

60  to   80  minutes 

80-100 

15  minutes 

6   to   7   hours 

20-35 

1  to  3   hours 

Irregular 

4 

20   to   60    minutes 

Irregular 

20-40 

10   min.   to   3   hrs. 

Irregular 

NOTABLE  SPRINGS 

Black    Sand,    Chinaman,    Emerald    Pool,    Morning    Glory,  Punch    Bowl,    Sponge,    Sunset    Lake. 


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A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


ference  of  300  yards,  and  is  more  like 
a  lake  than  a  spring.  The  water  is 
pure  deep  bkie  in  the  center,  fading  to 
green  on  the  edges,  and  its  basin  and 
terraced  slopes  are  astonishingly  bright 
and  varied  in  color.  The  temperature 
of  the  water  is  about  146  degrees  Fah- 
renheit. 

Morning  Glory  Spring  is  also  a  very 
unusual  spring,  with  its  symmetrical 
conformation  and  funnel-like  crater. 
The  walls  are  delicately  colored,  and  the 
water  a  transparent  blue.  It  has  the 
appearance  of  a  gigantic  morning  glo- 
ry set  in  the  earth. 

Several  days  might  well  be  spent 
roaming  among  these  geysers  and 
springs,  observing  the  varied  phenom- 
ena. 

In  the  trees  directly  back  of  Old 
Faithful  Inn  is  located  the  Public  Auto 
Camp  Ground,  where  you  may  pitch 
your  tent  free  of  charge.  Many  hikes 
and  horseback  trips  to  points  of  inter- 
est can  be  made  by  trail  from  the  hotel. 

The  drive  to  Yellowstone  Lake  is  ov- 
er a  wonderful  winding  hill,  one  of  the 
engineering  feats  of  the  Park.  Yellow- 
stone Lake  lies  7,741  feet  above  sea 
level.  It  is  the  largest  body  of  water 
in  the  world  at  that  altitude,  with  the 
exception  of  Lake  Titicaca,  Peru.  It 
has  an  irregular  shore  line  of  a  hun- 
dred miles  and  an  area  of  139  square 
miles.  Several  islands  dot  the  surface 
of  this  beautiful  sheet  of  ice-cold  wa- 
ter. The  terraces  surrounding  its 
shores  show  that  at  the  close  of  the 
glacial  period  its  surface  was  about 
180  feet  higher  than  it  is  at  present, 
and  its  area  was  nearly  twice  as  great. 
The  outlet  formerly  was  by  way  of  the 
Snake  River  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The 
Continental  Divide  then  nassed  over 
the  summit  of  Mt.  Washburn.  The 
change  may  have  been  caused  by  earth- 
quakes, unheaval  or  by  subsidence.  The 
probabilities  are  that  ice  dammed  the 
narrow  gorge  of  Outlook  Creek,  through 


which  the  water  of  the  lake  formerly 
flowed  to  the  Snake  River.  Whatever 
the  cause,  its  outlet  waters  changed, 
and  eroded  the  now  famous  and  splen- 
didly colored  canyon  of  the  Yellowstone 
River. 

At  the  Lake  Hotel  the  tourist  is  al- 
most sure  to  see  bears.  They  usually 
come  down  out  of  the  forest  in  the  late 
afternoon  and  evening  to  feast  on  the 
garbage  thrown  out  from  the  kitchen. 
They  are  so  tame  that  they  may  be  ap- 
proached with  impunity,  at  least  near 
enough  to  be  photographed. 

It  is  advisable  to  spend  a  day  or  two 
in  this  vicinity  and  enjoy  the  varied 
attractions.  A  launch  trip  should  be 
taken  on  the  Lake.  It  will  be  found 
very  interesting. 

There  is  excellent  fishing  in  the  Lake. 
One  of  the  most  popular  places  to  catch 
fish,  is  from  Fishing  Bridge  which  spans 
the  Yellowstone  River  a  short  distance 
from  the  Lake  outlet.  The  Government 
Fish  Hatchery  is  located  on  the  lake 
shore,  a  short  distance  from  the  Lake 
Hotel,  and  is  well  worthy  a  visit. 

From  the  Lake  we  drove  to  the 
Grand  Can-yon  of  the  Yellowstone. 

This  alone,  without  the  geysers, 
would  have  warranted  the  reservation 
of  so  striking  a  region  for  a  National 
Park. 

The  Yellowstone  River  issues  from 
the  north  end  of  Yellowstone  Lake  in 
a  broad,  smooth,  staitely  current,  si- 
lently flowing  on  for  about  15  miles. 
Then  suddenly  it  increases" speed,  rushes 
wildly  and  goes  thundering  over  the 
Upper  Falls,  making  a  drop  of  109  feet 
to  the  shelving  rock  at  the  bottom  of 
the  abyss.  Then  it  rushes  in  wild  fury 
for  a  short  distance,  being  compressed 
between  the  perpendicular  rocks  from 
a  width  of  200  feet  between  the  Upper 
and  Lower  Falls,  to  less  than  100  feet 
when  it  takes  a  sheer  leap  of  308  feet 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE    AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING     23 


Copyright  by  Haynes,  'St.  Paul 

The   Woman   Bear,   Yellowstone  National  Park. 


24 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY   AUTOMOBILE 


into  the  Canyon  below,  where  it  goes 
foaming  on  its  way. 

The  Canyon  is  gorgeously  startling 
and  impressive.  Its  precipitous  walls 
are  comparatively  free  from  vegetation, 
and  are  broken  with  pinnacles  and  jag- 
ged ridges.  >  The  Canyon  is  approxi- 
mately 20  miles  long,  but  it  is  only  the 
first  3  miles  below  the  Lower  Falls  that 
carry  the  wonderful  colors.  At  bright 
noonday  the  walls  are  adorned  with  all 
the  colors  of  a  rainbow. 

Robert  Stirling  Yard  in  his  "Book 
of  the  National  Parks"  writes  about 
the  Canyon:  "Those  who  have  seen  all 
the  other  leading  features  of  the  world's 
great  natural  phenomena,  agree  that 
here  all  seem  to  have  been  brought  to- 
gether and  thrown  over  the  edge  of 
that  chasm,  into  the  abyss  in  one  glo- 
rious confusion  of  enchantment.  No 
one,  whether  artist,  cameraman  or 
writer,  has  been  able  to  adequately  por- 
tray or  describe  this  Canyon."  The 
Canyon  measures  2,000  foot  from  rim 
to  rim,  and  narrows  down  to  200  feet 
at  the  river,  while  the  depth  is  1,200 
feet.  If  the  Canyon  is  to  be  viewed  from 
the  northern  lim  a  high  steel  bridge 
is  cros.sed  over  Cascade  Creek.  At  the 
north  end  of  the  bridge  a  path  leads  to 
the  right  down  the  edge  of  the  gulch, 
passing  Crystal  Falls,  and  leading  to 
the  top  of  the  Lower  Falls.  Near  the 
Grand  Canyon  Hotel  is  a  stairway  lead- 
ing down  to  the  Lower  Falls.  The  Can- 
yon and  Lower  Falls,  however,  are  seen 
to  the  best  advantage  from  Inspiration 
Point  at  the  end  of  this  road,  and  from 
Artists'  Point  across  the  Canyon.  Ar- 
tists' Point  is  the  spot  from  which  Mo- 
ran  painted  his  great  nicture  now  hang- 
ing in  the  National  Capitol.  Free  auto 
camn  grounds  are  located  iust  north  of 
the  Upper  Falls  near  Canyon  Junction. 

The  Glacial  Boulder  passed  on  the 
left-hand  side  of  the  road,  on  the  drive 
to  Inspiration  Point,  shows  the  great 
transporting  power  of  the  glaciers.  It 
is  granite  and  measures  24  x  20  x  18 


feet.  It  was  transplanted  to  this  rest- 
ing place  from  mountains  more  than 
thirty  miles  away.  The  peaks  of  the 
mountains  surrounding  the  Park  are  a 
mass  of  granite,  and  the  few  granite 
boulders  found  in  the  Park  were  shaped  , 
transformed  and  brought  here  by  gla- 
cial ice.  The  boulder  reposes  on  rhyo- 
lite  and  other  products  of  volcanism 
three  or  four  thousand  feet  thick. 

From  Canyon  Junction  we  continued 
north  to  Tower  Fall  Junction.  About 
six  miles  north  of  the  Grand  Canyon 
Hotel,  the  left  or  main  traveled  road, 
which  is  the  usual  route  in  bad  weather, 
goes  by  way  of  Dunraven  Pass.  We 
chose  the  right-hand  road,  which  leads 
over  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washburn,  al- 
titude 10,000  feet.  It  is  the  highest 
and  steepest  auto  road  in  the  Park. 
Be  sure  your  radiator  is  full  of  water 
before  starting  as  it  will  surely  boil. 
It  is  advisable  to  have  your  brakes  in 
good  condition,  and  be  sure  to  use  com- 
pression on  the  descent  on  the  north 
side,  to  prevent  the  brakes  from  over- 
heating. The  descent  is  about  10  miles 
to  Tower  Fall  Junction. 

The  wonderful  panorama  to  be  had 
from  Mt.  Washburn  will  amply  repay 
vou  for  your  trouble.  While  descend- 
ing this  mountain  in  1917,  during  a  vis- 
it to  the  Park,  our  car  skidded  for  200 
feet  on  the  moist  road,  and  to  say  it 
was  thr'lling  is  to  put  it  mildly. 

PETRIFIED  TREES 

A  petrified  tree  is  situated  one-half 
mile  south  of  the  main  road,  about  one 
mile  west  of  Tower  Fall  Junction.  Some 
petrified  wood  is  aho  found  in  the 
northwest  corner  of  the  park. 

The  fossil  forests  cover  an  extensive 
area  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the 
park,  being  especially  abundant  on  the 
ridges  south  and  west  of  Lamar  River. 
The  most  accessible  forest  is  found  on 
Specimen  Ridge  about  six  miles  south- 
east of  Camp  Roosevelt,  and  may  be 
conveniently  reached  by  a  side  trip  on 
horseback. 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING    25 


Copyright  by  Haynes,   St.   Paul 

Great  Falls    (Close  up)    Yellowstone  National  Park. 


26 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


View  in  YellowstoYie  National  Park. 


Petrified  Tree. 


Grand  Canyon  of  Yellow- 
stone River. 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLAC  lER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING    27 


If  you  have  a  couple  of  days  to  spare 
you  might  visit  Amethyst  Mountain, 
about  twelve  miles  due  southeast  of 
Camp  Roosevelt,  passing  the  Buffalo 
Farm  on  the  way.  The  last  few  miles 
are  by  trail.  Horses  and  guides  can  be 
obtained  at  Camp  Roosevelt. 


View  in  Yellowstone  National  Park. 


On  the  northeast  slope  of  Amethyst 
Mountain,  erosion  has  exposed  the  pet- 
rified remains  of  thirteen  ancient  for- 
ests in  layers,  one  on  top  of  the  other, 
buried  at  different  periods  of  volcanic 
outpourings. 

In  bygone  centuries,  the  lowest  of 
these  forests  was  entombed  by  a  vol- 
canic outburst  of  mud,  ashes  and  cin- 
ders which  prostrated  many  trees, 
broke  off  limbs  and  completely  buried 
trees  standing  where  they  grew.  On 
top  of  this  volcanic  deposit  with  its 
completely  buried  trees,  a  new  forest 
grew  and  flourished.  But  the  volcanoes 
only  slept.  Later,  when  the  trees  were 
once  more  in  their  glory,  volcanic  fires 
again  broke  forth  filling  the  sky  with 
their  products,  and  again  the  forest  was 
doomed.  Thirteen  consecutive  times 
were  great  forests  here  smothered,  each 
in  a  layer  by  itself,  and  each  time  new 
forests  grew  on  top  of  the  buried  ones. 
The  summit  was  raised  2,000  feet  by 
the  products  of  these  numerous  volcan- 
ic activities.  On  top  of  this  mountain 
the  pines  and  spruces  of  today  are  mer- 
rily growing,  unmindful  of  the  tragic 
tree  history  beneath.  Waters  highly 
laden  with  silica  circulated  through  the 


buried  trunks  and  stumps  and  petri- 
fied them,  changing  the  wood  to  quartz 
crystals.  In  due  time  the  mud  and 
dshes  that  buried  the  trees  also  turn- 
ed to  stone.  So  perfect  is  the  petrifi- 
cation that  the  worm  holes  and  leaves 
are  preserved  with  absolute  fidelity. 
The  annular  rings,  from  which  one  tells 
the  age  of  the  trees,  are  clearer  and 
more  easily  counted  than  those  of  liv- 
ing trees,  and  these  indicate  for  the 
large  trees  an  age  of  not  less  than  five 
hundred  years.  Some  of  the  stumps  are 
fully  ten  feet  in  diameter,  and  one  red- 
wood discovered  measures  26i/^  feet 
in  circumference  and  its  age  is  esti- 
mated at  several  thousand  years.  The 
lower  slopes  of  the  mountain  are  cov- 
ered with  fragments  displaying  beau- 
tiful crystals  of  agate,  jasper,  chryso- 
prase  and  amethyst.  In  many  cases, 
the  species  of  trees  are  readily  deter- 
mined. More  than  eighty  kinds  have 
been  differentiated,  including  redwoods, 
laurels,  pines,  buckthorn,  sycamore, 
oaks,  and  also  trees  that  today  only 
grow  in  southern  climates. 


Grantl   Canyon   of  Yellowstone   River. 


How  long  it  took  each  growth  to 
reach  maturity;  how  long  it  flourished 
afterward  before  destruction;  and  how 
long  the  several  lava  flows  suspended 
vegetable  growth,  are  matters  largely 
conjectural. 

GRASSHOPPER  GLACIER 

Just  outside  the  northeast  comer  of 
the  Park,  in  the  Beartooth  Niational 
Forest,  is  Cook  City,  Montana,  a  quaint 


28 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTH  WEIST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


little  mining  town.  The  town  is  sur- 
rounded by  some  of  the  most  imposing 
mountains  in  this  region,  and  radia- 
ting from  it  are  numerous  trails  which 
can  be  followed  on  horseback. 

Pilot  Peak  and  Index  Peak,  a  short 
distance  to  the  southeast,  are  remark- 
able for  their  perpendicular  castellated 
crests.  The  chief  attraction  in  this  vi- 
cinity is  Grasshopper  Glacier,  situated 
about  twelve  miles  north  of  Cook  City. 
It  is  an  immense  mass  of  snow  and  ice 
located  high  up  on  the  shoulder  of  Gla- 
cier Peak.  It  was  so  named  because 
of  the  fact  that  the  stratified  remains 
of  millions  of  grasshoppers  are  embed- 
ded in  the  ice,  where  the  insects  were 
caught  by  a  snowstorm,  in  prehistoric 
times,  during  a  flight  across  the  pass. 
It  covers  an  area  of  nearly  five  square 
miles  at  the  head  of  Rosebud  Canyon. 
Cook  City  is  thirty-eight  miles  from 
Camp  Roosevelt  and  can  be  reached  by 
auto ;  from  there  saddle  horses  must  be 
used,  and  the  last  mile  and  a  half  is 
made  on  foot  through  broken  rock  up  a 
steep  slope,  where  horses  can  not  be 
taken. 

WILD  ANIMAL  SANCTUARY 

The  Yellowstone  National  Park  is 
undoubtedly  the  largest  and  most  woij- 
4erful  game  preserve  in  the  world. 
With  the  exception  of  Mountain  Lions 
and  Coyotes,  all  animals  that  inhabit 
this  region  are  protected  in  every  pos- 
sible way.  Free  from  molestation  by 
the  hunter,  they  have  become  compar- 
atively fearless. 

Elk,  deer,  antelope,  moose,  bear  and 
mountain  sheep  roam  the  park  at  will, 
in  large  numbers.  The  National  Park 
Service  Officials  estimate  that  there  are 
between  15,000  and  20,000  elk  in  the 
Park.  The  buffalo  in  the  Park,  at  one 
time,  were  nearly  exterminated.  In  1896 
when  protection  laws  were  passed,  the 
original  stock  had  been  reduced  by 
hunters  to  about  25  individuals.  Since 
then,  the  government  has  added  to  the 


Park  stock,  buffalo  purchased  out  of 
of  the  Flathead  Lake  and  Texas  Pan- 
handle herds.  At  the  present  time  they 
have  increased  to  about  600. 

The  "show"  herd  can  be  seen  by  the 
tourist  at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs, 
where  they  are  kept  in  an  enclosure. 
The  "tame"  herd  of  several  hundred, 
are  supposed  to  be  at  the  Buffalo  Ranch 
east  of  Tower  Falls,  but  more  probably 
in  the  hills  beyond  the  Lamar  River, 
where  a  hike  by  trail  may  be  necessary 
to  see  them.  A  "wild"  herd  grazes 
near  the  headwaters  of  Pelican  Creek, 
and  another  in  the  Beckler  River  Mead- 
ows in  the  southwest  corner  of  the 
Park. 

Antelope  can  often  be  seen  near  Gar- 
diner and  elk  and  deer  as  well  as  bear 
are  generally  seen  from  the  roadside, 
by  the  tourist,  while  driving  over  the 
main  highway  of  the  Park.  Big  Horn 
Mountain  Sheep  frequent  the  high 
bluffs  overlooking  Gardiner  Canyon  at 
the  northern  part  of  the  Park,  while 
moose  graze  undisturbed  in  the  pas- 
tures in  the  Beckler  River  country,  and 
also  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the 
Park. 

Bears  frequent  the  vicinity  of  the 
hotels  and  camps,  because  they  have 
come  to  recognize  the  garbage  thrown 
out  from  the  kitchens  as  their  special 
source  of  food  supply.  Throughout 
the  summer  months  they  visit  the  ho- 
tels in  large  numbers,  usually  apearing 
in  the  late  afternoon  or  evening.  They 
are  quite  harmless  so  long  as  they  are 
not  teased  or  molested.  It  is  a  very 
interesting  sight  to  watch  them  feed- 
ing. The  bears  of  the  Park  are  most- 
ly black  bear,  but  sometimes  their  col- 
oring shades  off  to  brown  and  the  unin- 
formed call  them  cinnamon,  but  they 
belong  to  the  same  species.  The  nose 
of  the  black  bear  is  always  brown.  In 
one  litter  there  often  are  found  cubs, 
both  black  and  brown.  The  grizzly  is 
ocasionajly  seen.  He  is  of  powerful 
proportions  and  has  grizzly  gray  hair. 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING    29 


often  tipped  with  white,  when  he  is 
known  as  a  Silver  Tip.  The  black  bear 
is  a  good  tree  climber,  whereas,  with 
the  exception  of  the  cub,  the  grizzly- 
is  unable  to  climb. 

While  traveling  near  the  Lake  Hotel 


spruce  and  climbed  to  the  topmost 
branches.  It  sat  there  forty  feet  from 
the  ground  and  watched  us-  I  know  of 
nothing  more  cunning  or  more  attract- 
ive, than  a  cub  roosting  in  a  tree.  He 
hung    his    httle    fat    stomach    over    a 


Cub  Bear  in  Tree,  Yellowstone  National  Park. 


we  saw  our  first  bears  in  the  Park.  A 
bear  followed  by  a  cub,  walked  across 
the  road  a  short  distance  ahead  of  us. 
I  stopped  the  machine,  got  my  camera 
and  photographed  them.  While  chang- 
ing the  film,  the  cub  took  to  a  nearby 


branch  and  looked  down  at  me,  with 
his  little  ears  cocked  and  his  head 
turned  to  one  side,  as  much  as  to  say, 
"I  decline  your  invitation  to  come 
down."  I  got  a  good  snapshot,  as  the 
accompanying  picture  will  prove. 


80 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


One  evening  while  camping  in  the 
Park  we  had  an  unexpected  guest  for 
supper.  A  full-grown  black  bear  came 
to  the  camp,  in  a  friendly  manner,  coax- 
ing for  something  to  eat.  We  gave  it 
some  scraps  and  a  half  loaf  of  bread, 
which  it  seemed  to  relish  immensely. 
After  it  had  finished  the  bread  the 
bear  ambled  off  into  the  woods,  but  soon 
returned,  bringing  with  him  four  others 
of  his  kind.    We  felt  quite  flattered  at 


seizing  two  loaves  of  bread,  part  of  a 
ham  and  the  sack  containing  all  our 
cooking  utensils  and  made  off  into  the 
pines,  doubtlessly  planning  to  estab- 
lish a  kitchen  of  their  own.  Of  course, 
it  is  needless  to  say,  we  were  very  much 
shocked  as  well  as  frightened  to  think 
they  would  do  such  an  ungrateful  thing. 
However,  we  decided  to  let  them  have 
anything  they  thought  necessary  to 
their    comfort.       In   the   morning    we 


Mother  Bear  and  Cub,  Yellowstone  National 
Park. 


this  unexpected  honor,  and  proceeded  to 
feed  them  most  bountifully.  After  sup- 
per the  bears  were  loath  to  leave,  mani- 
festing their  gratitude  by  hanging 
around  all  night,  compelling  us  to  re- 
main awake  and  entertain  them.  We 
felt  quite  uneasy  towards  the  last.  The 
bears  not  receiving  proper  attention  in 
the  way  of  food,  became  disgruntled, 
got  into  the  car  and  helped  themselves. 


found  all  our  utensils  a  short  distance 
from  the  camp,  scattered  in  various  di- 
rections. Truly !  this  is  the  way  of  the 
bear. 

A  good  many  of  the  animals  leave 
the  Park  boundaries  during  the  fall  and 
winter  months,  and  are  killed  by  the 
hunters  outside.  When  they  drift  over 
the  line,  the  rangers  of  the  United 
States  Forest  Service  and  State  Game 


TOURING   YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING     31 


Wardens  take  up  the  work  of  protecting 
these  animals  from  would-be  poachers 
and  tooth  hunters. 

From  Tower  Falls  Junction  to 
Mammoth,  there  is  nothing  particularly 
interesting,  especially  after  one  has 
seen  so  much.  At  the  top  of  the  ridge  we 
saw  Electric  Peak  in  the  distance 
ahead,  while  to  the  left  is  Bunsen's 
Peak  and  to  our  right,  Mt.  Everts.  This 
is  a  superb  view.  It  takes  in  the  valley 
of  the  Gardiner  River  and  the  Yellow- 
stone. 

We  passed  through  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs  and  soon  reached  Gardiner, 
leaving  the  Park  behind  us.  Alas !  How 
hard  it  was  to  leave  it.  We  promised 
we  would  some  day  see  it  again — we 
said  "Au  Revior  but  not  good-bye" 

But  remember  this,  don't  be  in  too 
much  of  a  hurry;  take  plenty  of  time, 
you  may  never  visit  the  place  again, 
although  you  promise  to  do  so. 

We  returned  to  Livingston,  and  con- 
tinued our  journey  westward,  passing 
through  Bozeman,  Three  Forks  and 
Whitehall  on  the  way  to  Butte.  West 
of  Livingston  the  arrows  of  the  trail- 
mark  point  east.  After  passing  Boze- 
man and  traversing  the  Gallatin  Valley, 
you  will  notice  at  Three  Forks,  where 
the  Gallatin,  Madison  and  Jefferson 
Rivers  converge  to  form  the  mighty 
Missouri.  All  along  the  route  the  scen- 
ery is  very  attractive. 

We  stopped  at  Whitehall  over  night, 
early  in  the  morning  starting  for  Butte. 

Soon  the  foothills  merge  gradually 
into  the  steeper  mountains.  You  make 
a  gradual,  almost  imperceptible  climb 
for  a  distance  of  20  miles,  until  15  miles 
east  of  Butte  you  cross  the  Continen- 
tal Divide  of  the  Rockies,  through 
Pipestone  Pas?,  one  of  the  most  at- 
tractive drives  in  this  part  of  the  state, 
at  an  elevation  of  6,950  feet.  The  wind- 
ing descent,  leading  west  into  Butte,  is 
quite  steep  and  compression  should  be 


utilized,  thereby  saving  the  brakes.  It 
may,  at  times,  be  advisable  to  shift  to 
intermediate  gear.  In  Butte  are  loca- 
ted the  world  famous  copper  mines,  to 
which  the  city  owes  its  prosperity. 
Many  side  trips,  of  interest  to  the  tour- 
ist, are  available.  Roosevelt  Drive, 
Limestone  Hill  and  Brown's  Gulch  are 
especially  recommended  for  their  scenic 
beauty.  There  is  also  excellent  fishing 
in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

We  traveled  to  Missoula  by  way  of 
Deer  Lodge,  Drummond  and  the  Can- 
yon of  "Hell  Gate"  River,  arriving  there 
at  3:00  p.  m.  Missoula  is  the  metropolis 
of  Western  Montana,  and  the  gateway 
through  which  all  overland  travelers 
across  Montana  must  pass.  Hellgate 
Canyon  is  the  only  pass  through  the 
mountains  between  the  Canadian  Bor- 
der and  Southern  Idaho.  Missoula  is 
the  hub  of  five  productive  valleys:  the 
Bitter  Root,  Flathead,  Blackfoot,  Hell- 
gate  and  Missoula.  Here  you  find  a 
splendid  camp  ground  just  outside  the 
city  limits,  situated  in  a  large  pine 
grove.  Rattle  SnPtke  Creek,  which 
flows  through  the  camp  grounds,  emp- 
tying in  the  Missoula  Rivert  is  well 
stocked  with  cut-throat  and  brook  trout. 
By  going  a  short  distance  up  this 
stream  one  can  readily  catch  the  limit. 
Just  east  of  the  city  at  the  entrance 
of  Hellgate  Canyon  on  Mount  Sentinel, 
is  a  mammoth  letter  "M"  consisting  of 
rock  painted  white,  symbolizing  Mis- 
soula. In  this  city  we  met  some  old  ac- 
quaintances, who  invited  us  to  dinner, 
and  what  a  wonderful  dinner  it  was! 
We  sure  had  appetites  to  enjoy  it. 

We  started  early  the  following  morn- 
ing, hoping  to  make  the  distance  of 
183  miles  to  Coeur  d'Alene  City.  A 
few  miles  east  of  Superior  we  encoun- 
tered two  deer  standing  in  the  road. 
They  seemed  absolutely  unconcerned 
at  our  presence,  seemingly  contesting 
the  right  of  wav.  We  honked  our  horn 
and  threw  rock  at  them,  after  which 
they  loped  off  into  the  forest. 


32 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


Approaching  the  Bitter  Root  Divide 
some  fairly  steep  grades  are  negotiated. 

After  passing  through  St.  Regis  and 
Saltese,  the  last  ten  miles  of  the  road 
to  Summit,  where  you  cross  the  Bitter 
Root  Mountains  through  Lookout  Pass 
at  an  elevation  of  4,727  feet,  was  very 
bad  and  extremely  steep.  At  the  sum- 
mit we  came  to  a  hair-pin  turn  called 
a  "Switch  Back".  This  is  a  terribly 
dangerous  place.     STOP!     Back   your 


yon  a  thousand  feet  deep.  As  you  coast 
along  sharp  curves  for  quite  a  distance, 
you  suddenly  come  out  in  the  open  and 
just  ahead  of  you  is  Mullan.  Seven 
miles  beyond  is  Wallace,  the  center  of 
the  Coeur  d'Alene  mining  district.  Here 
is  situated  the  Bunker  Hill  and  Sulli- 
van Mine,  the  largest  silver-lead  mine 
in  the  world  in  production  and  profits. 

We  followed  the  Coeur  d'Alene  River 
through     Kellogg     to     Cataldo,     then 


The  Switch-back,  at  Summit  of  Lookout  Pass,   Idaho-Montana   State   Line. 


car  carefully!  Here  you  will  appreciate 
good  brakes,  and  thank  your  stars  you 
have  no  trailer  in  the  way.  From  the 
summit  you  shut  off  your  engine  and 
coast  all  the  way  into  Wallace,  a  dis- 
tance of  16  miles.  Use  your  compres- 
sion and  take  plenty  of  time.  The  can- 
yon is  impregnated  with  the  fumes  of 
burnt  brake  linings. 

For  the  first  few  miles  the  trail  fol- 
lows the  forest-covered  mountain  from 
whose  sides  trickle  many  springs  of 
pure  ice-cold  water.  At  the  opposite 
side  of  the  road  is  a  deep  wooded  can- 


branching  to  the  right  from  the  stream 
we  passed  through  the  famous  Fourth- 
of-July  Canyon,  traveling  for  miles 
through  virgin  forests  of  pine  and  tam- 
arack. With  Coeur  d'Alene  fifteen  miles 
ahead,  the  road  continued  winding 
around  curve  after  curve,  mounting 
higher  and  higher  on  the  very  edge  of 
the  mountain.  To  our  left  was  a  pre- 
cipitous drop  of  hundreds  of  feet  to  the 
shores  of  Lake  Coeur  d'Alene  dancing 
and  sparkling  for  miles  in  the  sunlight. 
Several  glimpses  of  the  lake  are  to  be 
had  as  we  travel  this  winding  trail, 
and  at  last  emerging  from    the  timber 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING     33 


we  gradually  descend  until  the  lake 
lies  shimmering  at  our  feet,  closely 
hugging  its  shores  until  we  arrive  in 
Coeur  d'Alene  City. 

We    chartered    a    launch    at    Coeur 


trailing  vines  and  deep  scented  ferns 
together  with  fragrant  Avild  flowers 
flourish  in  the  glens  of  the  forest-cover- 
ed  hills   that   gradually   slope   upward 


t         ' 


ST.  REGIS  RIVER,  MONTANA. 


FOURTH  OF  JULY  CANYON,  IDAHO. 


Serpentine  Road  west  of  St.  Regis,  Montana. 


d'Alene,  unloaded  our  equipment  into 
the  boat,  stored  our  car  at  the  garage 
and  started  up  the  lake  to  Del  Cardo 
Bay,  where  we  have  a  cottage  nestling 
in  the  trees  on  the  shore  of  this  pictur- 
esque body  of  water. 

The  Bay  is  situated  in  a  small  amphi- 
theatre which  is  a  perfect  symphony  of 
foliage,  beach  and  water.    Red  berries. 


towards  the  west.  Here  we  spent  sev- 
eral weeks  of  the  most  delightful  time 
ever  experienced,  renewing  old  acquain- 
tances, bathing,  boating  and  fishing. 

Having  formerly  resided  in  Spokane, 
we  made  several  trips  to  that  city  from 
Coeur  d'Alene  while  encamped  on  the 
lake.  The  drive  is  34  miles,  mostly  ov- 
er a  fine  cement  road,  skirting  here  and 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


there  along  the  Spokane  River  by  way 
of  "The  Apple  Way'",  so  named  from  its 
borders  of  fruit  bearing  trees. 

Spokane  is  the  metropolis  of  the 
"Inland  Empire",  having  a  population 
of  one  hundred  and  fifteen  thousand. 
The  city  has  wide  streets,  splendid 
schools,  office  buildings,  stores,  and 
wonderful  parks  and  boulevards,  besides 
having  one  of  the  most  wonderful  ho- 
tels in  the  country — Davenport  Hotel. 
The  Spokane  River  passes  through  the 
heart  of  the  city  where  it  has  a  series 
of  picturesque  cascades.  Grain  and 
fruit  farming,  lumbering,  mining,  ship- 
ping and  manufacturing  form  the  es- 
sential industries  of  the  "Inland  Em- 
pire" and  Spokane  is  the  hub. 

Within  a  few  hours'  ride  from  the  city 
are  numerous  lakes  and  streams  abund- 
antly stocked  with  fish.  The  surround- 
ing country  also  has  many  game  birds, 
such  as  quail,  hungarian  partridge, 
native  pheasant,  grouse,  brilliantly  col- 
ored Chinese  pheasant,  prairie  chicken, 
and  ducks. 

Spokane  has  one  of  the  finest  and 
most  modern  camp  grounds  in  the 
country.  It  is  called  "The  Highbridge 
Tourist  Camp"  and  is  located  at  Hang- 


man Creek  on  the  west  side  of  the  city. 
As  this  article  goes  to  press,  it  is  re- 
ported that  during  the  season  of  1922 
all  motorists  stopping  at  the  camp  will 
be  charged  a  nominal  fee  of  fifty  cents 
per  day  for  parking  privileges.  The 
tourist  camp  has  been  laid  out  similar 
to  a  city,  with  lots  and  blocks  where 
tourists  will  be  allowed  to  pick  their 
camp.  Every  person  must  register. 
The  make  of  every  car  will  be  placed  on 
record  as  well  as  the  number  of  the  en- 
gine. After  making  application  for  en- 
trance into  camp  each  car  is  tagged. 
With  the  charge  goes  the  use  of  the 
camp,  fire  wood,  hot  and  cold  water, 
a  wash  rack  for  automobiles,  laundry 
tubs,  shower  baths,  toilet  facilities,  po- 
lice protection,  and  general  information 
about  the  city.  The  Inland  Automobile 
Association  expects  to  have  a  man  on 
duty  practically  all  day  at  the  camp 
to  furnish  road  information  for  all  de- 
siring it.  Making  a  charge  for  parking 
services  is  new  to  Spokane,  but  obser- 
vation has  taught  that  tourists  prefer 
to  pay  a  small  fee  for  camping  facili- 
ties when  every  attempt  is  made  to  pro- 
vide for  their  comfort,  than  to  stop  in 
a  free  camp  that  is  filthy  and  lacking 
in  facilities  for  cooking  and  bathing. 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING     35 


EASTWARD  BOUND 


On  the  morning  of  August  13th,  1921, 
after  having  spent  a  very  pleasant  va- 
cation of  several  weeks  on  Lake  Coeur 
d'Alene,  we  started  on  our  eastward 
journey.  The  boat  arrived  at  7:45  a.  m. 
and  we  soon  loaded  our  equipment  on 
board.  Then  we  regretfully  bid  fare- 
well to  the  many  friends  who  gathered 
at  the  landing  to  see  us  off.  As  the 
boat  headed  around  the  rocky  point 
shutting  out  the  last  view  of  the  cot- 
tage and  glorious  bay,  we  gave  one  last 
longing  look  and  said  "au  revoir  but 
not  good  bye",  because  we  surely  will 
go  back.  We  are  inclined  to  be  senti- 
mental, having  sweet,  wholesome,  ten- 
der memories  of  Del  Cardo  Bay,  but 
we  try  as  best  we  can  to  hide  our  emo- 
tions. We  soon  arrived  at  Coeur  d'Alene, 
where  we  packed  the  equipment  on  the 
car,  bought  supplies,  oil  and  gasoline, 
and  started  on  our  drive  through  the 
Fourth-of-July  Canyon,  passing  through 
Wallace,  thence  up  the  steep  grade  over 
the  mountains  through  Lookout  Pass, 
The  rustling  leaves  and  darkening  sky 
gave  warning  of  an  approaching  storm, 
and  by  the  time  we  arrived  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  grade  on  the  east  side,  it 
started  to  rain  in  torrents.  We  stopped 
until  the  rain  subsided  and  then  con- 
tinued on  our  wav  until  just  a  few 
miles  west  of  St.  Regis,  where  we  re- 
mained over  night,  camping  near  a 
stream.  We  Dassed  ten  cars  during  the 
day  bearing  Ohio  licenses,  and  two  phy- 
sicians with  their  families  from  Tole- 
do shared  the  camp  with  us.  The  fol- 
lowing day  we  arrived  in  Missoula  early 
in  the  afternoon. 

Here,  once  more,  we  were  royally  en- 
tertained by  our  friends,  who  insisted 
we  remain  to  dinner.  And  the  dinner! 
It  began  with  tomato  soup;  then  trout, 
fried  chicken,  potatoes,  salad,  corn, 
camembert  cheese,  ice  cream,  cake  and 
coffee — and  a  touch,  you  know,  just  a 


touch,  of  that  nectar  that  makes  the 
blood  flow  faster,  and  makes  you  sit  up 
and  take  notice.  This  dinner  was  pre- 
pared with  such  skill  and  forethought 
for  our  enjoyment,  that  we  will  always 
remember  it  with  gratitude. 

We  then  drove  to  the  camp  grounds 
and  you  may  be  sure  our  sleep  was 
long  and  deep  that  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing we  started  north  to  Glacier  Nation- 
al Park. 

Automobile  tourists  traveling  on  the 
Yellowstone  Trail  may  reach  Belton, 
the  western  entrance  to  Glacier  Park, 
from  Missoula,  Montana.  The  total 
distance  is '167  miles,  the  route  being 
by  way  of  the  Flathead  Indian  Reserva- 
tion with  its  prosperous  towns  of  Ar- 
lee,  Ravalli,  St.  Ignatius,  Poison  and 
Kalispell.  Good  roads  prevail  through- 
out this  section  and  the  traveler  may 
supply  his  needs  at  any  of  the  towns 
along  the  v/ay. 

The  Mission  Mountain  Range,  on  the 
right,  along  the  foot  of  which  we  pass 
for  miles,  has  no  rival  for  beauty  and 
grandeur.  The  road  just  north  of  Ra- 
valli passes  through  the  National  Bi- 
son Range,  where  can  be  seen  scores  of 
buffalo  roaming  on  the  hills.  Poison  is 
at  the  south  end  of  Flathead  Lake,  sup- 
posed to  be  the  largest  body  of  fresh 
water  west)  of  the  Mississippi  River. 
At  Poison  the  tourist  has  the  choice 
of  three  routes  north:  a  good  road  on 
either!  shore  of  the  lake  or  he  may 
cross  by  steamer,  shipping  his  auto  to 
Somers  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake. 
From  there  h«  has  ten  miles  of  good 
road  to  Kalispell,  which  is  thirty-five 
miles  from  the  entrance  to  Glacier  Park. 

For  no  particular  reason  we  choose 
the  road  traversing  the  east  side  of 
Flathead  Lake.  The  lake  is  dotted  with 
islands,   and  surrounded  Hvith  (forests 


36 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILb 


that  grow  to  its  very  edge.  We  found 
many  good  camp-sites  along  the  shore, 
and  creeks  of  ice-cold  water  crossing 
the  road  at  frequent  intervals.  On  the 
drive  we  saw  many  covies  of  ring-neck- 
ed pheasant.  The  State  of  Montana 
maintains  a  Game  Preserve  about  twen- 
ty miles  north  of  Poison. 

A  few  miles  north  of  this  place  we 


camped  for  the  night,  on  the  shore  of 
the  lake.  We  gathered  drift-wood  and 
soon  had  a  big  camp  fire  going,  then 
all  went  in  bathing,  and  later  to  bed. 

The  next  morning  we  proceeded  to 
Kalispell,  where  we  met  some  friends, 
had  our  machine  overhauled  and  about 
noon  left  for  Belton,  entering  the  park 
at  2:30  p.  m. 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING    37 


GLACIER   NATIONAL  PARK 


Here  are  the  new  Alps  of  the  western 
world.  Here  is  the  last  stand  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Sheep  and  Goat,  that 
inhabit  the  sky-land  trails.  Here  game 
is  found  in  abundance — elk,  deer,  moose, 
black  and  grizzly  bears,  beaver  and 
mountain  lions.  Here  are  trails  that 
follow  the  old  game  trails  leading  up 
the  mountain  side,  over  snowfields  and 
along  the  very  edge  of  glaciers.  Here 
in  the  cool  shadowy  depths  of  the  for- 
est, are  transparent  lakes  and  turbulent 
streams  where  trout  are  large  and  gam- 
ey.  Here  are  alpine  meadows  carpeted 
with  wild  flowers  that  grow  in  great 
profusion  and  variety. 

Here  is  a  wonderful  tumbled  region 
possessing  sixty  glaciers,  two  hundred 
and  fifty  lakes,  as  many  stately  peaks 
and  cirques,  precipices  four  thousand 
feet  high  and  valleys  of  corresponding 
depth,  picturesque  waterfalls,  dense  for- 
est-clad slopes  and  impressive  mountain 
fastnesses,  all  of  astonishing  and  rugged 
beauty. 

The  scenic  beauty  is  absolutely  unri- 
valed. It  elevates,  inspires,  dignifies 
and  renders  serious  all  who  come  under 
its  spell.  Here  nerves  that  have  been 
tense  for  years,  slowly  relax.  The  call 
of  the  "wild"  is  a  real  call.  Throw  off 
the  conventions  and  superfluities  of  civ- 
ilization, go  to  Glacier  Park  and  enjoy 
this  wonderful  scenery  or,  if  you  are 
a  persistent  fisherman,  cast  your  fly 
upon  the  sparkling  waters  and  match 
your  skill  against  the  finny  tribe.  The 
Park  season  extends  from  June  15th 
to  Sept.  15th. 

The  Park  is  situated  in  Northwestern 
Montana  and  incloses  more  than  fifteen 
hundred  souare  miles  of  mountain  mag- 
nificence. In  ruergedness  and  spectacular 
scenery  it  undoubtedlv  surpasses  the 
Alps,  though  geologically  it  is  auite  dif- 
ferent.      The  Park   extends  from  the 


Canadian  Border  on  the  north  to  the 
Great  Northern  Railway  on  the  south, 
and  from  the  Blackfeet  Indian  Reser- 
vation on  the  east  to  the  North  Fork 
of  the  Flathead  River  on  the  west.  It 
was  created  a  National  Park  by  act  of 
Congress  May  11th,  1910,  to  preserve 
for  all  time  and  for  all  generations  its 
mountain  beauties.  At  present,  com- 
munication between  the  east  and  west 
sides,  within  the  Park,  can  only  be  made 
by  trails  across  passes  over  the  Conti- 
nental Divide.  Although  Congress  ap- 
proved the  "Transmountain  Road  Pro- 
ject" and  appropriated  one  hundred 
thousand  dollars  to  start  its  construc- 
tion in  1921,  it  will  require  about  five 
years  to  complete,  but  each  year's  work 
will  permit  motorists  to  reach  new 
points  of  scenic  interest.  It  will  cross 
the  Park  through  Logan  Fass,  extend- 
ing from  the  highway  at  St.  Mary  Lake 
on  the  east  to  Lake  McDonald  on  the 
west,  and  will  be  approximately  fifty 
miles  long. 

From  the  Continental  Divide,  which 
runs  northwest  and  southeast  through 
the  Park,  descend  nineteen  principal 
valleys,  seven  on  the  east  side  and 
twelve  on  the  west.  The  west  side  val- 
leys south  of  Lake  McDonald  are  not 
at  the  present  time  sufficiently  devel- 
oped to  be  of  tourist  importance,  but 
the  valleys  to  the  north — Camas  Creek, 
Loging,  Quartz  Creek,  Bowman  and 
Kintla,  are  valleys  of  unsurpassed  gran- 
deur. At  the  present  time  they  may  be 
seen  only  by  those  who  carry  camp  out- 
fits and  use  pack-horses  following  the 
trails.  On  the  east  side  are  found  Two- 
Medicine.  Cut  Bank,  Red  Eagle,  St.  Ma- 
ry, Swift  Current,  Kennedy  and  Belly 
River  Valleys.  All  these  valleys  have 
numerous  lakes  whose  shores  are  cov- 
ered with  forests.  At  the  head  of  these 
valleys  are  steep,  rugged  peaks,  topped 
and  decorated  with  glaciers,  their  rocky 


88 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


precipices  streaked  with  white  ribbons 
of  frothing  water,  which  go  tumbling 
a  thousand  feet  or  more  below. 

WROUGHT  IN  SEDIMENTARY  ROCK 

The  scenic  features  of  Glacier  Park 
is  the  result  of  the  Lewis  Overthrust 
Fault,  combined  with  the  erosive  ac- 
tion of  the  glaciers  of  the  dim  past. 

Scores  of  millions  of  years  ago  these 
lofty  mountains  of  Glacier  Park,  were 
deposited  as  sand,  mud  and  lime  car- 
bonate on  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  that 


ed  into  rock,  and  all  the  time  the  forces 
continually  kept  pressing  together  and 
upward  the  rocky  crust  of  the  earth. 
At  some  stage  of  this  process  the  range 
cracked  along  its  crest,  then  the  great 
overthrust  followed.  Side-pressure  of 
inconceivable  power  forced  upward  the 
western  edge  of  this  crack  and  thrust  it 
over  the  eastern  edge.  When  it  settled 
the  western  edge  of  this  break  overlap- 
ped the  eastern  edge  ten  to  fifteen  miles, 
and  was  thousands  of  feet  high,  ex- 
tending along  a  front  of  forty  miles. 


Lake  Josephine,  Gould  Mountain  and  Grinnell  Glacier,  Glacier  National 

Park. 


once  covered  what  is  now  the  north- 
west of  this  continent. 

Eventually,  as  the  earth's  crust  con- 
tracted, concerning  whose  cause  many 
theories  have  lived  and  died,  pressures 
from  within  caused  a  bulging  in  places, 
very  much  as  the  sides  of  an  orange  will 
bulge  when  squeezed.  Under  urge  of 
the  terrific  pressure,  the  crust  lifted, 
emerged  and  became  land.  Untold  ages 
passed  and  the  land  gradually  harden- 


This  thrusting  of  one  edge  up  over  the 
other  is  called  faulting  by  geologists, 
and  this  particular  fault  is  called  the 
Lewis  Overthrust. 

We  know  nothing  about  the  rock  in 
the  vast  interior  of  the  earth,  called 
the  primal  Archean  by  geologists,  but 
we  do  know  a  good  deal  about  the 
rocks  just  above  the  Archean.  The  very 
lowest  of  the  known  rocks,  and  conse- 
quently the  oldest,  which  are  exposed 


TOURING   YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING     39 


in  Glacier  Park,  are  called  by  geologists, 
the  Algonkian,  Since  emerging  from 
the  ancient  sea  they  have  become  hard- 
ened by  pressure  and  by  the  formation 
of  minerals  in  the  minute  interspaces 
cementing  the  mud  and  sand  of  the 
original  rock  until  today  the  sandstones 
are  turned  to  quartzites,  the  limestone 
hardened  to  a  very  resistant  rock,  and 
the  shale  into  argillite.  Of  the  rocks 
forming  the  mountains  the  limestones 


a  layer  of  green  shale  3,400  feet  thick, 
called  Appekunny  Argillite.  It  weath- 
ers every  possible  shade  of  green.  Above 
that  lies  2,200  feet  of  Grinnell  Argil- 
lite or  red  shale,  which  weathers  every 
shade  of  dark  red.  Both  these  shales 
have  a  good  deal  of  glistening  white 
quartzite  mixed  with  them. 

Next  above  that  is  found  more  than 
4,000  feet  of  Siyeh  limestone.    It  is  very 


SCENE  IN  GLACIER  NATIONAL  PARK. 


TWO-MEDICINE   LAKE,  GLACIER  PARK. 


are  the  most  massive  and  resistant  to 
erosion,  and  naturally  form  the  highest 
peaks. 

The  Algonkian  rocks  lie  in  four  dif- 
ferently colored  strata,  all  of  which  are 
easily  differentiated.  The  lowest  of 
these,  the  rock  that  actually  lay  next 
to  the  old  Archean,  is  called  the  Altyn 
limestone.  It  is  approximately  1,600 
feet  thick.  It  is  faint  blue  inside,  but 
weathers  a  pale  bluff. 

Next  above  the  Altyn  limestone  lies 


VIEW  IN  GLACIER  NATIONAL  PARK. 


THE  MORNING'S  TOILET. 


hard  and  massive,  colored  iron-gray» 
with  an  insistent  flavor  of  yellow.  Hor- 
izontally through  the  middle  of  this  up- 
per strata  runs  a  dark,  broad  ribbon 
of  diorite,  a  rock  as  hard  as  granite 
which  once  while  molten,  burst  from 
below  and  spread  a  layer  all  over  what 
was  then  the  bottom  of  the  sea.  When 
this  cooled  and  hardened,  more  lime- 
stone was  deposited  on  top  of  it,  hence 
the  dark  ribbon  running  through  those 
lofty  gl-ay  limestone  precipices.  Above 
all  these  colored  strata,  once  lay  anoth- 


40 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


GLACIER    PARK    STATION,    MONTANA. 


er  shale  of  very  brilliant  red.  Frag- 
ments of  this,  which  geologists  call  the 
Kintla  formation,  may  be  seen  topping 
mountains  here  and  there  in  the  north- 
ern part  of  the  Park, 

On  the  east  side  of  the  park,  can 
plainly  be  seen  where  the  ancient  Al- 
gonkian  rock  rests  on  top  of  rock, 
which  have  been  identified  by  their  fos- 


HUNTING  SAGE  HENS. 


sils  as  belonging  to  the  much  younger 
Cretaceous  period.  When  these  rocks 
were  lifted  high  in  the  air,  cracked,  and 
one  edge  thrust  violently  over  the  oth- 
er, they  sagged  in  the  middle.  If  a 
horizontal  line  were  drawn  straight 
across  the  park  from  east  to  west  it 
would  pass  through  the  bottom  of  the 
Altyn  limestone  on  the  east  and  west 
boundaries;  but  in  the  middle  of  the 
park,  where  is  located  the  basin  of  Flat- 
top Mountain,  it  would  pass  through 
the  top  of  the  Siyeh  limestone.  There- 
fore  it  would  cut  diagonally  through 


the  green  and  the  red  argillites  on  both 
sides  of  the  Continental  Divide.  This, 
is  why  the  region  appears  so -tumbled, 
twisted,  and  inextricably  mixed.  The 
basin  of  Flat-top  Mountain  is  situated 
between  the  crests  of  the  Livingston 
Range  on  the  west  and  the  Lewis  Range 
on  the  east. 

During  the  overthrusting,  which  may 
have  taken  a  million  of  years,  and  dur- 
ing   the   millions    of   years    since,    the 


HELL'S    HALF-ACRE,   POWDER   RIVER,. 
WYOMING. 


frosts  have  chiseled  and  the  rains  have 
washed  away  the  topmost  layer,  the 
accumulations  of  the  ages  from  Algon- 


MORNING  EAGLE  FALLS, 

GLACIER   NATIONAL 

PARK. 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING     41 


kian  times  down,  leaving  the  Algonkian 
rocks  wholly  exposed.  Not  a  sign  re- 
mains today,  except  here  and  there  per- 
haps a  fragment  of  Cretaceous  coal — all 
has  been  ground  to  powder  and  washed 
away  by  flood  and  stream  to  enrich  the 
drainage  basins  of  the  Saskatchewan, 
Columbia  and  Mississippi.  This  was  ac- 
complished by  three  series  of  count- 
less centuries  of  rainfall  and  frost,  in- 
terspersed by  a  series  of  incalculable 
centuries  of  ice  which  descended  from 
the  north,  the  erosive  action  of  which 
gouged  deep  furows,  forming  valleys, 
carved  and  chiseled  the  highly-colored 
rocks,  and  excavated  deep  cirques,  sep- 
arated from  each  other  by  narrow  saw- 
tooth-edged walls.  In  many  instances 
these  walls  are  nearly  perpendicular 
and  rise  one  to  four  thousand  feet  above 
the  floor  of  the  basin. 

The  present  glaciers  are  the  diminu- 
tive remnants  of  the  last  ice  age,  and 
are  still  carving  and  cutting,  but  in  a 
mfnor  degree,  as  they  did  in  the  dim 
and  misty  past.  The  glaciers  formed 
the  lakes,  one  of  the  most  attractive 
features  of  the  park. 

***** 

A  permit  for  operating  an  automobile 
over  the  roads  of  the  park  is  secured 
at  the  ranger  station  at  the  west  en- 
trance for  fifty  cents,  while  at  the  east 
entrance  the  fee  is  two  dollars  and  fifty 
cents.  After  entering  the  park,  we  fol- 
lowed a  wide,  macadam  road,  built 
through  a  dense  forest  of  lodge-pole 
pine,  spruce  and  cedar  to  the  foot  of 
Lake  McDonald,  three  miles  north  of 
Belton.  Here  is  located  the  National 
Park  Cabin  Resort  operated  by  a  pri- 
vate concern,  where  log  cabins  can  be 
rented  at  reasonable  rates,  by  the  day, 
week  or  month.  Launch  service  is 
maintained  between  this  point  and  the 
Lewis'  Hotel  and  Resorts  at  the  head 
of  the  lake. 

After  spending  a  few  moments  here 
we  continued  up  the  valley  of  the  North 
Fork  of  the  Flathead  River.  This  road 
is  not  suitable  for  automobile  travel  be- 


yond Christensen's  Ranch,  twenty  miles 
from  the  foot  of  Lake  McDonald,  but 
each  year  the  road  is  being  gradually 
extended  farther  into  the  northwest 
part  of  the  park. 

On  account  of  rain  we  were  unable 
to  travel  farther  than  Cama's  Creek, 
where  we  crossed  the  bridge  and  pitch- 
ed camp  for  the  night.  Here  we  soon 
had  a  dandy  camp-fire  going,  and  later 
had  a  good  feed  of  trout  which  I  caught 
in  the  stream. 

In  Cama's  Creek  Valley  are  six  ex- 
quisite lakes,  all  having  fine  trout  fish- 
ing. The  chain  begins  in  a  pocket  gorge 
below  Longfellow  Peak  and  are  con- 
nected with  each  other  by  streams. 

The  next  morning  we  returned  to 
Lake  McDonald.  On  the  way  we  ob- 
served two  deer  grazing  on  the  road- 
side, looking  mildly  at  us,  seemingly 
unconcerned. 

Here,  for  a  fee  of  seventy-five  cents, 
the  launch  will  take  you  to  the  head  of 
the  lake,  which  should  be  visited  by  all 
means,  this  being  the  most  accessible 
place  to  visit  the  beautiful  scenery  of 
the  west  side. 

Lake  McDonald  (Altitude  3,144  feet) 
occupies  the  lower  end  of  the  McDonald 
Valley,  It  is  nine  miles  long  and  one 
mile  wide.  Its  greatest  depth  is  ap- 
proximately 387  feet.  .It  has  an  irregu- 
lar shore  line  heavily  timbered,  with  a 
splendid  grouping  of  mountains  at  the 
upper  end,  the  principal  ones  being  Mt. 
Vaught  (8,840  feet) ;  Mt.  Brown  (^,541 
feet) ;  and  Cannon  Mountain  (8,000 
feet).  The  highest  peak  in  this  region 
is  Mt.  Edwards,  (9,055  feet).  McDon- 
ald Creek  empties  into  the  upper  end 
of  the  lake.  Two  miles  up  the  trail  of 
this  creek  is  Paradise  Canyon,  a  rocky 
gorge  very  narrow  and  deep,  with  some 
attractive  waterfalls  in  it. 

Avalanche  Basin  and  Lake  are  a  day's 
trip  from  Lewis'  to  the  northeast,  the 
distance  being  about  nine  miles.  Ava- 
lanche Basin  is  perhaps  the  finest  exam- 


42 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTH  WEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


pie  of  a  glacial  cirque  in  the  park.  The 
lake  with  its  forest-covered  shores  is 
hemmed  in  on  all  sides  except  the  outlet 
by  walls  over  3,000  feet  high.  At  the 
top  of  this  wall  is  Sperry  Glacier  and 
the  melting  ice  of  the  glacier  spills  over 
the  precipice  in  a  half-dozen  torrential 
streams.  The  lake  is  elliptical,  about  a 
mile  long  and  half  as  wide,  and  is  a  fa- 
vorite place  for  anglers. 

From  Lewis'  Hotel  a  trip  can  be  made 
to  Sperry  Glacier,  a  distance  of  nine 
miles,  by  traveling  the  trail  around  the 
south  side  of  Edwards  Mountain  and  up 


largest  glacier  in  the  park,  having  an 
area  of  three  square  miles.  Its  streams 
flow  into  the  St.  Mary  River  on  the  east 
side  of  the  Continental  Divide.  This 
glacier  is  especially  dangerous  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  upper  cascade.  Visitors 
are  not  permitted  to  make  explorations 
unless  accompanied  by  competent  guides 
and  supplied  with  ropes,  belts,  alpen- 
stocks and  emergency  equipment.  The 
alpenstock  is  utilized  to  sound  for  blind 
crevasses,  and  in  case  a  person  breaks 
through  the  ice,  the  alpenstock  is 
thrown  across  the  crevass  to  prevent  be- 
ing precipitated  to  the  bottom. 


Hidden  Lake,  Glacier  National  Park. 


Sprague  Creek,  to  Sperry  Glacier  Cha- 
lets. Continuing  east  on  this  trail,  takes 
you  over  Gunsight  Pass  to  Going-to- 
the-Sun  Chalets  on  the  east  side  of  the 
park. 

Trout  Lake,  about  eight  miles  west  of 
the  Hotel,  is  a  favorite  fishing  place, 
and  Snyder's  Lake,  four  miles  east,  is 
another  anglers'  delight. 

The  most  accessible  glaciers  in  the 
park  are  Blackfeet,  Sperry  and  Grin- 
nell.  Blackfeet  Glacier  is  two  miles  by 
trail  from  Gunsight  Lake.    This  is  the 


The  trail  to  Sperry  Glacier  from  the 
Sperry  Chalets  is  very  steep,  and  is  a 
distance  of  about  two  miles.  Horses 
should  be  used  to  the  foot  of  the  es- 
carpment under  the  south  rim  of  the 
glacier,  the  last  mile  of  the  journey  be- 
ing made  on  foot  up  the  almost  perpen- 
dicular wall  of  the  mountain.  It  is  eas- 
ily accessible,  and  the  chalet  close  at 
hand  will  enable  one  to  spend  several 
days,  if  he  chooses,  in  studying  the  gla- 
cier. 

To  visit  Grennell  Glacier  one  takes 


TOURING   YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLAC  lER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING     43 


the  trail  from  Many  Glacier  Hotel  on 
Lake  McDermott  on  the  east  side  of 
the  park,  passing  Lake  Josephine  and 
Lake  Grinnell  on  the  way.  The  distance 
is  seven  miles. 

After  spending  a  few  days  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Lake  McDonald  we  left 
for  Belton.  The  Great  Northern  Rail- 
road maintains  a  daily  antomobile 
freight  car  service  for  shipment  of  au- 
tomobiles from  Belton  to  Glacier  Park 
Station  or  vice-versa.  The  charge  for 
this  service  is  $15-63.     Passenger  far3 


They  are  used  as  supporting  pillars  in- 
side and  out.  Many  of  the  logs  are  for- 
ty-two feet  high  and  several  measure 
five  feet  in  diameter.  The  hotel  is  in 
two  large  units  connected  by  a  long 
roofed  observation  room.  The  lobby 
is  the  length  of  a  city  square  and  the 
ceiling  reaches  to  the  rafters.  The 
walls  are  decorated  with  pelts  and 
adorned  with  skulls  to  which  the  horns 
are  still  connected.  The  fireplace  in  the 
lobby  is  open  on  all  sides,  and  covered 
only  by  an  immense  chimney  let  down 
from  the  center  of  the  ceiling  resem- 


Glacier  Park  Hotel,  Glacier   National   Park. 


is  approximately  $1.75.  Runways  are 
kept  on  hand  to  quickly  load  the  car  on 
the  train.  The  distance  from  Belton  to 
Glacier  Park  Station  on  the  east  side 
of  the  park,  where  the  most  beautiful 
scenery  is  to  be  found,  is  fifty-eight 
miles,  the  railroad  crossing  Marias 
Pass  at  an  elevation  of  5,215  feet. 

The  Glacier  Park  Hotel  at  the  eastern 
entrance  is  a  mammoth  structure  built 
of  immense  logs  of  Douglas  fir,  taken 
from  the  "Big  Trees"  of  the  northwest. 


bling  the  time-approved  wigwam.  Sev- 
eral Indian  tepees  are  squatted  about 
the  hotel  grounds.  There  were  many 
tourists  here.  Everything  is  quite  in- 
formal and  comfortable,  a  good  many 
of  the  tourists,  both  men  and  women,  be- 
ing dressed  in  riding  breeches  or  khaki 
outfits. 

When  our  car  arrived  the  next  after- 
noon, we  left  this  queer  hotel,  fashion- 
ed out  of  big  timber.  An  hour's 
ride,  skirting  Two-Medicine  River,  en- 


44 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


abled  us  to  penetrate  the  r&nge  at  a 
point  of  supreme  beauty  and  stand  be- 
side the  chalet  at  the  foot  of  Two-Medi- 
cine Lake.  Here  is  a  hirge  body  of  wa- 
ter situated  in  a  densely  forested  val- 
ley, from  whose  shores  rises  a  pano- 
rama of  mountains  that  takes  the 
breath.  Immediately  to  the  right  is 
Rising  Wolf  Mountain,  with  an  eleva- 
tion of  9,510  feet.  To  the  southwest 
at  the  head  of  the  lake  is  Mt.  Rockwell 
(9,505  feet),  flanked  on  one  side  by  Mt. 
Helen  and  Pumpelly's  Pillar,  and  on  the 


group  of  cirques.  From  St.  Mary  Cha- 
lets a  steamer  can  be  taken  to  Going- 
to-the-Sun  Chalets,  situated  at  the  head 
of  the  lake.  From  here  can  be  viewed 
titanic  mountains  of  deep  red  argillite, 
grotesquely  carved,  surrounded  by 
snowfields,  hanging  glaciers  that  glis- 
ten in  the  sun,  and  spires  that  merge 
into  the  sky. 

Here  also  you  may  tramp  the.  flower 
carpeted  and  timber  shadowed  mead- 
ows, cruise  the  lake  with  a  launch,  or  go 


Lake  St.  Mary,  Glacier  National  Park. 


other  by  Mt.  Grizzly.  The  colors  of  the 
rocks  vary  from  blue  to  gold,  silver,  red 
or  gray,  according  to  the  mood  of  the 
weather,  and  the  reflection  of  the  sun 
and  sky.  Appistoki  Falls  nearby  is  well 
worth  a  visit. 

At  Trick  Falls  on  the  road  to  Two- 
Medicine  Chalets,  the  Two-Medicine 
River,  situated  in  a  wondrously  forested 
glen,  cataracts  over  a  great  lime-stone 
uplift  known  as  the  Lewis  Overthrust. 

After  remaining  here  two  days  we 
next  visited  St.  Mary  Lake,  situated  in 
a  valley  at  the  head  of  which  are  a 


over  the  high  passes  on  horseback.  The 
trails  are  of  marvelous  beauty,  bordered 
with  Indian  fox  grass,  mountain  dais- 
ies, yellow-dog  tooth  violets,  clematis, 
syringa,  blue  bells,  yellow  columbine, 
blue  larkspur  and  hundreds  of  other 
wild  varieties.  In  fact,  the  whole  region 
is  an  immense  flower  garden. 

There  are  several  passes  connecting 
the  east  and  west  sides  of  the  park, 
but  only  four  are  practical  as  crossing 
places,  namely:  Gunsight,  Swiftcurrent, 
Logan  and  Brown  Passes. 

Gunsight  Pass  is  the  most  celebra- 


TOURING   YELLOWSTONE    AND    GLAC    lER    PARKS— CAMPING   AND    FISHING     45 


Gunsight  Lake  and  Chalets,  Glacier  National  Park- 


46 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


ted.  From  the  east  it  is  reached  by 
trail  leading  from  Going-to-the-Sun 
Chalets  at  the  head  of  St.  Mary  Lake, 
and  by  way  of  Piegan  from  Lake  Mc- 
Dermott.  At  Gunsight  Lake  the  trail 
starts  up  the  steep  slopes  of  Mt.  Jack- 
son toward  Gunsight  Pass.  The  view 
of  Gunsight  Pass  from  the  foot  of  Gun- 
sight Lake  is  one  of  the  most  stirring 
sights  in  the  park.  The  immense  gla- 
ciered  uplift  of  Mt.  Jackson  on  the 
south  of  the  pass,  the  wild  glistening 
white  sides  of  Gunsight  Mountain  op- 
posite, dropping  to  the  upturned  strata 
of  red  argillite  at  the  water  edge,  the 
pass  itself  perched  above  the  dark  preci- 
pice at  the  head  of  the  lake,  the  zig- 
zag which  the  trail  traverses  up  Jack- 
son's perpendicular  sides  and  its  pas- 
sage across  mammoth  snowfields  situat- 
ed high  in  the  air,  give  a  thrill  long  to 
be  remembered.  From  the  summit  of 
the  pass  a  panorama  of  exquisite  beau- 
ty is  unfolded.  Two  thousand  feet  be- 
low and  towards  the  northeast  is  Gun- 
sight Lake,  while  on  the  southwest 
side,  touching  the  precipitous  sides  of 
the  pass,  is  Lake  Ellen  Wilson,  which 
is  celebrated  for  its  rare  beauty. 

Swinging  along  the  shale-rock  slopes 
above  Lake  Ellen  Wilson  and  over  the 
Lincoln  Divide,  the  trail  suddenly  de- 
scends into  a  circular  basin  to  the  Sper- 
ry  Glacier  Chalets.  From  there  it  con- 
tinues descending  down  the  side  of  Mt. 
Edwards  to  Lake  McDonald  on  the  west 
side  of  the  park.  An  easy  trail  of  two 
miles  from  Gunsight  Lake  leads  to 
Blackfeet  Glacier,  the  largest  in  the 
park.  It  is  practically  a  day's  journey 
from  Going-to-the-Sun  Chalets  to  Sper- 
ry  Glacier  Chalets,  where  it  is  usually 
necessary  to  remain  over  night,  con- 
tinuing the  trip  of  about  three  hours 
the  following  morning.  Horses  and 
guides  may  be  obtained  for  the  round 
trip  at  the  rate  of  ten  dollars  for  each 
person,  if  five  or  more  make  the  trip  to- 
gether. This  does  not  include  provi- 
sions, hotel  and  chalet  rates.  Various 
combination    trips    can    be    made    by 


horses  and  guides,  and  many  short  trips 
can  be  made  on  foot  in  the  park. 

Leaving  St.  Mary  Lake  we  traveled 
north  to  Lake  McDermott,  where  the 
road  abruptly  ends.  There  is  no  ques- 
tion but  what  this  is  the  scenic  center 
of  the  park. 

Lake  McDermott  is  about  a  mile  long, 
and  quite  narrow,  and  has  an  elevation 
of  4,861  feet.  At  the  outlet  of  the  lake 
is  McDermott  Falls,  a  series  of  cas- 
cades, where  the  tourist  will  delight  to 
linger.  The  lake  occupies  a  rock  basin 
which  the  old  glaciers  scoured  out  in 
places  where  the  rocks  were  slightly 
softer  than  they  were  lower  down  the 
valley  near  the  outlet.  The  rock  barrier 
that  crosses  at  the  outlet  is  composed 
of  a  limestone  ledge  which  holds  Lake 
McDermott  in  place.  Some  may  sup- 
pose that  this  ledge  was  thrust  up  like 
a  dike,  but  such  is  not  the  case.  At  the 
bottom  of  the  fall  the  older  rock  lies 
on  the  much  younger  Cretaceous  of  the 
Plains.  The  lake  assumes  many  colors, 
from  vivid  blue  and  steel  blue  to  green, 
according  to  the  whim  of  breeze,  sky  and 
sun,  or  with  approaching  storm  clouds 
it  may  suddenly  become  a  study  in  black 
and  white.  Here  is  located  the  Many 
Glacier  Hotel,  a  mammoth  structure 
built  of  native  stones  and  timber  hewed 
anci  sawed  from  adjacent  forests  of 
spruce  and  balsam. 

Lake  Josephine,  immediately  to  the 
southwest  of  Lake  McDermott,  is  one 
of  the  most  picturesque  lakes  in  the 
park,  presenting  a  reflection  of  moun- 
tain, foliage,  glacier  and  sky  in  their 
own  coloring.  Indeed!  it  looks  like  a 
mirror  in  an  emerald  setting,  and  its 
waters  assume  all  the  colors  of  a  rain- 
bow. A  mile  farther  to  the  southwest 
is  situated  Lake  Grinnell,  at  the  foot 
of  the  tremendous  precipice  of  Gould 
Mountain.  At  the  upper  end,  three  large 
cataracts  discharge  their  waters  from 
Grinnell  Glacier  down  the  steep  slope 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING    47 


into  the  lake,  with  a  deafening  noise, 
presenting  a  beautiful  sight.  The  lakes 
are  connected  with  streams,  are  gla- 
cier-fed and  abundantly  stocked  with 
trout. 

Iceberg  Lake  lies  in  a  beautiful  am- 
phitheatre about  one-half  mile  in  diam- 
eter, surrounded  by  a  horseshoe  of  per- 
pendicular walls  from  2,500  to  3,000  feet 
high,  a  glacier  situated  in  its  innermost 
curve,    a    lake    of    miniature    icebergs 


moss.  Field  •  glases  should  be  taken 
along.  Here,  also,  are  found  myriads 
of  wild  flowers  growing  at  the  very  edge 
of  the  glacier. 

From  the  bridge  at  McDermott  Falls 
near  the  Many  Glaciers  Hotel,  you  get 
an  unbroken  panorama  of  scenic  beau- 
ty. To  the  left  rises  Mt.  Allen,  rugged, 
forest-covered  to  its  Arctic^AIpine 
zone,  with  an  elevation  of  4,500  feet 
above  the  valley  floor. 


Many  Glacier  Hotel  and  Lake  McDermott,  Point  Mountain   (Center),  Mt.  Al- 
len (Right) ,  Glacier  National  Park. 


floating  in  its  center.  This  cirque  was 
not  built  up  from  below,  but,  on  the  con- 
trary, was  gouged  and  cut  out  of  the 
solid  rock,  from  the  top  downward,  by 
ice.  At  the  outlet  is  a  series  of  falls. 
The  trail  to  Iceberg  Lake  is  seven  miles 
from  Lake  McDermott,  and  can  be  made 
with  horses  or  on  foot  in  a  short  space 
of  time.  It  is  situated  on  the  north 
fork  of  Swift  Current  Creek.  This  is  a 
good  place  to  get  a  view  of  mountain 
goat  and  big  horn  sheep.  They  are 
frequently  seen  making  their  way  along 
the  ledges,  feeding  on  the  grass   and 


Next,  to  the  southwest  is  Mount 
Gould  with  its  bold  escarpment  of  gray 
limestone  banded  with  black  diorite  near 
the  top.  Then  comes  Grinnell  Glacier, 
hanging  ghstening  in  the  sun,  high  up 
on  the  Garden  Wall — not  forbidding 
and  repellant — but  inviting  and  friendly* 
The  saw-tooth  Garden  Wall  is  just  be- 
yond, narrow  and  precipitous.  The  ma- 
jestic mountain  commanding  the  cen- 
ter of  the  picture  is  Mt.  Grinnell  that 
rises  from  the  lakeside  in  an  enormous 
pyramid,  having  multiferous  colors. 
To  the  right  of  Grinnell  Mountain  is 


48 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


Lake  Josephine,  Mt.  Gould  at  left,  Grinnell    Glacier    and    Garden    Wall,    top 

center,  Glacier  National  Park. 


Swift  Current  Mountain,  and  the  de- 
pression between  these  two  is  Swift 
Current  Pass.  Then  farther  to  the 
right  is  Mt.  Wilbur,  another  majestic 
pyramid,  massively  carved.  To  the  right 
of  that  is  a  continuation  of  the  Garden 
Wall,  serrated  deeply  by  the  ages. 

Mt.  Henkel  swings  back  upon  your 
right  bringing  your  vision  nearly  to 
the  starting  point.  Now  if  you  will 
turn  around  and  look  toward  the  east 
you  will  see  the  limitless  lake-dotted 
plan,  completing  the  scenic  circle. 
Truly !  it  is  a  place  to  linger  and  dream 
away  the  idle  hours.  He  who  can  ride 
or  walk  can  visit  mysterious  and  en- 
chanting spots  of  extreme  beauty. 

The  eastern  entrance  of  park  can  be 
reached  by  automobile   over  the   "Na- 


tional Park  to  Park  Highway"  leaving 
the  Yellowstone  Trail  at  Livingston,. 
Montana,  and  traveling  north  through 
Ringling,  White  Sulphur  Springs,  Great 
Falls,  Chouteau  and  Browning;  or  over 
the  "Geyser  to  Glacier  Road"  passing 
through  Three  Forks,  Boulder,  Helena, 
Wolf  Creek,  Chouteau  and  Browning; 
or  over  the  "Custer  Battlefield  High- 
way" from  Omaha  and  Council  Bluffs- 
by  way  of  Sioux  Falls,  Rapid  City,  S. 
D.,  Spearfish,  Sheridan,  Custer  Battle 
Field,  Billings,  Roundup,  Lewiston, 
Great  Falls  and  Browning.  An  auto 
road  called  the  "Roosevelt  Highway"  has 
been  perfected  through  from  Duluth  by 
way  of  Grand  Forks,  Minot,  Wolf  Point, 
Havre  and  Browning,  this  being  the 
most  northern  route  across  the  coun- 
try. Those  leading  from  the  Yellow- 
stone Trail  are  considered  the  best. 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE    AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING    49 


FISHING 


The  call  of  lake  and  stream  always 
appeals  to  the  primitive  in  man.  Deep 
in  the  makeup  of  every  man  there  is 
the  memory  of  the  old  fishing  hole. 
The  same  instinct  which  sent  you  as  a 
barefooted  boy,  armed  with  a  bent  pin, 
a  can  full  of  worms,  a  piece  of  twine 
tied  to  a  willow  pole,  to  sit  for  hours 
on  the  bank  of  a  stream  flowing  through 
the  meadow  and  catch  minnows  or  bull- 
heads, is  still  with  you. 

Each  year  the  number  of  sportsmen 
who  seek  the  woods  and  streams  by 
automobile  grows  larger.  In  recogni- 
tion of  this  the  State  and  County  High- 
way departments  are  extending  broad 
hard-surfaced  roads  through  virgin  for- 
est fastnesses,  up  the  slopes  of  moun- 
tains and  over  the  passes — such  roads 
as  would  compare  more  than  favorably 
with  many  of  the  boulevard  roads  in 
eastern  cities.  The  West  has  gained 
a  reputation  for  its  hospitality  to  the 
tourist.  Rapidly  this  great  region  is  be- 
coming famous  as  a  home  of  game  fish, 
abundant  and  hard-fighting. 

If  you  desire  to  angle  for  the  finny 
tribe,  don't  pitch  camp  at  the  side  of 
a  beautiful  swift-flowing  stream,  on  the 
main  traveled  highway  and  expect  to 
catch  fish  off  the  bridge.  It  can't  be  done. 
You  will  be  disappointed.  Remember, 
trout  inhabit  by  preference  the  inac- 
cessible places,  the  cool,  swift  streams 
of  forest  and  mountain  away  from  the 
beaten  paths.  A  few  of  the  excellent 
places  where  you  may  try  your  luck 
are  as  follows: 

In  Minnesota  you  will  find  a  pano- 
rama of  lakes,  thousands  of  them, 
spread  out  before  you — take  your  choice 
— they  are  abundantly  stocked  with 
fish.  Going  west  across  Minnesota, 
the  Yellowstone  Trail  skirts  the  lake  re- 
gion of  the  south  central  part  of  the 
State,  where  the  fishing  is  always  good. 


Just  north  of  the  town  of  Ortonville 
near  the  Minnesota-South  Dakota  state 
line  is  located  Big  Stone  Lake,  which 
is  full  of  bass,  pike,  pickerel  and  crappie. 

About  sixty  miles  west  of  Ortonville 
you  reach  Waubay,  S.  D.  A  side  trip 
of  a  few  miles  to  the  north  will  take 
you  to  famous  fishing  lakes  where  bass, 
pike  and  pickerel  abound — Waubay, 
Blue  Dog,  Parker  and  Pickerel  Lakes 
being  the  best.  From  here  to  Billings, 
Montana,  there  is  no  fishing  to  speak 
about,  but  from  there  all  the  way  to 
Spokane,  Washington,  the  fishing  is  ex- 
cellent and  especially  so  in  the  streams 
tributary  to  the  main  rivers. 

Excellent  fishing  is  found  one  and 
one-half  miles  south  of  Laurel,  also  six 
miles  west  of  Reed  Point  and  on  the 
Boulder  River  south  of  Big  Timber, 
Montana. 

At  the  foot  of  every  mountain  and 
hill,  at  Livingston,  is  a  ribbon  of  rip- 
pling, sparkling  water,  where  the  flash- 
ing fly  of  the  angler  is  met  with  the 
dash  of  the  rainbow,  eastern  brook  and 
cut-throat  trout.  This  is  the  sports- 
man's paradise,  where  the  grandeur  and 
beauties  of  nature  are  most  perfect. 
You  can  camp  in  the  wildest  part  of 
the  mountains  and  yet  be  within  a  half- 
hour's  walk  of  Livingston. 

YELLOWSTONE  PARK. 

With  the  exception  of  Yellowstone 
Lake  and  River,  practically  all  the  lakes 
and  streams  were  destitute  of  fish  life, 
before  they  were  stocked  by  the  United 
States  Bureau  of  Fisheries.  Since  1889 
more  than  15,000,000  fry  have  been 
planted  in  the  various  streams  and 
lakes;  and  in  1904  a  fish  hatchery  was 
installed  near  the  Lake  Hotel  on  Yel- 
lowstone Lake. 

If  you  tour  the  park,  be  svire  to  visit 
the  hatchery,  as  it  is  a  very  instructive 


50 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


sight.  Today,  practically  all  the  streams 
and  lakes  are  well-stocked  and  afford 
excellent  sport  for  the  angler. 

The  varieties  consist  of  Rainbow, 
Eastern  Brook,  Cut-throat  or  native^ 
Loch  Leven  and  Von  Behr,  or  brown,  the 
latter  from  the  famous  Scotch  lake  and 
of  unequalled  excellence.  The  Rainbow 
and  Loch  Leven  trout  and  the  Grayling 
of  the  Madison  River  have  made  this 
section  famous  as  an  angler's  paradise. 
It  is  not  uncommon  for  an  expert  an- 
gler to  land  a  six-pound  Rainbow  Trout 
in  this  vicinity,  a  sport  to  be  fully  ap- 
preciated only  by  experience.  The  best 
place  to  fish  this  stream  is  just  out- 
side the  park  in  the  Yellowstone  Forest 
Reserve.  No  person  is  allowed  to  catch 
more  than  ten  fish  in  one  day  in  the 
park,  and  all  fish  under  eight  inches  in 
length  must  be  returned  to  the  water. 
Only  hook  and  line  can  be  used,  and  no 
fishing  license  is  required. 

One-day  fishing  trips  from  Mam- 
moth Hot  Springs  may  be  made  by  sad- 
dle-horse or  on  foot  by  good  pedestrians 
as  follows: 

South  on  main  road  to  Obsidian  Creek, 
Indian  Creek,  Upper  Gardiner  and  trib- 
utaries, and  Glen  Creek  for  small  East- 
em  Brook  Trout,  distance  being  from 
four  to  ten  miles.  . .  East  to  Lava  Creek, 
five  miles  for  Eastern  Brook,  or  to 
Blacktail  Creek,  eight  miles  for  small 
native  and  Rainbow  Trout.  .  .  East  or 
northeast  to  the  main  Gardiner  River 
for  Cut-throat,  Loch  Leven  and  East- 
ern Brook  trout. 

The  best  fishing  is,  of  course,  in  the 
streams  farthest  from  the  roads.  The 
best  fishing  near  the  roads  is  in  Yel- 
lowstone Lake  and  River,  Firehole  Riv- 
er, Madison  River,  Lamar  Creek,  Slough 
Creek  and  at  the  mouth  of  Tower  Creek 
near  Tower  Fall. 

The  fish  in  Yellowstone  Lake  are  not 
as  game  as  those  causrht  in  the  streams, 
and  the  Quality  is  likely  to  be  poor. 
Large  Mackinaw  Trout  also  inhabit  Yel- 


lowstone Lake.  A  fine  fishing  spot  is 
at  the  bridge  just  below  the  outlet  of 
the  lake.  Rowboats  are  available  for 
hire.  The  fly-fishing  is  best  after  Au- 
gust 1st  but  in  the  higher  portions  of 
some  of  the  streams  it  is  excellent  in 
July.  Flies  and  tackle  of  all  kinds  can 
be  bought  or  rented  in  the  park.  The 
flies  generally  used  are  the  following: 
Black  Gnat  (early).  Grizzly  King,  Pro- 
fessor, Brown  Hackle,  Cowdung,  Royal 
Coachman,  Parmacheene  Belle,  Queen 
of  Waters,  Silver  Doctor  and  White  Mil- 
ler  (for  late  evening). 

GLACIER  PARK. 

There  is  fine  fishing  in  almost  all  the 
streams  and  lakes  of  the  park.  Indeed, 
the  entire  district,  inside  and  outside 
the  park,  is  a  fishing  country  not  vision- 
ed  in  dreams.  Within  the  boundaries 
of  Glacier  Park  are  fishing  spots  prob- 
ably never  whipped  by  the  line  of  the 
white  man  and  perhaps  not  even  by  the 
redskin.  There  are  hundreds  of  unex- 
plored spots  waiting  for  the  fisherman 
and  his  rod.  All  species  of  trout  have 
been  planted  in  the  stream  and  lakes  of 
the  park,  in  order  to  determine  which 
are  the  most  adaptable.  Up  to  the  pres- 
ent time  the  fish  have  done  exception- 
ally well,  owing  to  the  abundant  natural 
foods,  and  because  the  waters  vary 
scarcely  a  degree  in  temperature  the 
year  around.  The  brush  and  woods  ad- 
jacent to  the  lakes  and  streams,  fur- 
nish an  abundance  of  insects  during  the 
summer  months  and  the  microscopic  life 
in  the  lakes  is  profuse.  There  are  large 
numbers  of  insects  whose  larvae  are 
aquatic,  furnishing  food  in  this  man- 
ner, and  the  adult  in  the  deposition  of 
the^r  eges  on  the  water  are  captured 
bv  the  fish,  or  taken  as  they  fall  upon 
the  surface.  On  the  bottom  of  a  good 
manv  lakes  are  also  found  fresh-water 
shrimp,  on  which  the  trout  feed. 

The  varieties  are  Cut-throat  (known 
as  native  or  black  snotted),  Eastern, 
Brook,    Rainbow,    Dolley  Varden    and 


TOURING   YELLOWSTONE    AND    GLACIER    PARKS— CAMPING   AND    FISHING     51 


Mackinaw.  The  Cut-throat,  Rainbow 
and  Eastern  Brook  are  the  favorites  of 
trout  fishermen-  All  three  are  very 
game,  very  shy  and  at  times  require 
considerable  ingenuity  and  coaxing  on 
the  part  of  the  angler,  but  they  strike 
quickly  and  are  hard  fighters.  Many 
of  them  attain  a  weight  of  six  pounds 
and  are  caught  from  waters  first  stock- 
ed in  1915. 


purchased  at  Many  Glacier  Hotel,  Two- 
Medicine  Lake,  St.  Mary  Chalets,  Gla- 
cier Park  Hotel  and  Glacier  Hotel 
(Lewis')  at  head  of  Lake  McDonald. 
Outfit  rents  for  twenty-five  cents  per 
day.  Rowboats  are  available  for  hire 
at  these  places.  Rates  are  fifty  cents 
per  hour  or  two  dollars  and  fifty  cents 
per  day  of  ten  hours. 


Cut-throat  Trout  caught  at  Lake  McDermott,  Glacier  National  Park- 


Mackinaw  Trout  are  found  only  in 
St.  Mary  Lake.  They  have  been  taken 
weighing  thirty-five  pounds;  ten  to  fif- 
teen-pound Mackinaws  are  quite  com- 
mon. They  are  caught  with  a  spoon  or 
a  combination  of  spoon  and  bait,  by 
trolling  in  deep  water,  but  occasionally 
may  be  caught  with  fly  and  tackle.  In 
the  park  fish  may  be  taken  only  with 
hook  and  line.  All  fish  hooked  less  than 
six  inches  long  must  be  carefully  han- 
dled with  moist  hands  and  returned  at 
once  to  the  water.  Ten  fish,  regardless 
of  weight,  constitute  the  Hmit  for  a 
day's  catch.  No  license  is  required  in 
the  park.  Fishing  tackle  consisting  of 
rod,   reel   and   line  may   be   rented   or 


Two-Medicine  Lake* — famous  for  its 
Eastern  Brook  and  Cut-throat  Trout. 
Good  fishing  is  also  found  in  the  Two- 
Medicine  River  below  Trick  Falls,  and 
in  the  Lower  Two-Medicine  Lake.  We 
whipped  the  stream  below  Trick  Falls 
for  nearly  two  hours  late  one  after- 
noon, and  never  got  a  strike,  so  we  went 
to  Two-Medicine  Lake  and  pitched 
camp.  These  lakes  are  supposed  to  be 
the  best-stocked  in  the  park,  because 
of  the  proximity  to  the  hatchery  at  the 
eastern  entrance.  We  found  the  best 
fishing  at  the  head  of  Two-Medicine 
Lake.  A  launch  service  is  maintained 
on  this  lake  and  the  fare  to  the  head 
and  return  is  seventy-five  cents.    Late 


fiS 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


the  next  aftenioon  we  fished  the  west 
end  of  the  lake,  near  where  the  stream 
enters  from  Upper  Two-Medicine  Lake 
under  the  precipitous  walls  of  Mt.  Rock- 
well- There  was  a  nice  ripple  on  the 
water  at  the  time.  Using  the  White 
Miller  and  the  Queen  of  the  Water  fly, 
which  are  very  fine  flies  for  late  even- 
ing fishing,  we  caught  twelve  Eastern 
Brook  and  Eight  Cut-throat  trout  in- 
side of  two  hours.  They  bite  very  rap- 
idly and  are  extremely  game  fighters. 


St.  Mary  Lake.  This  is  the  home  of 
the  Mackinaw  Trout,  but  also  contains 
Cut-throat  and  Eastern  Brook.  The  up- 
per end  of  the  lake  is  best,  but  they 
can  be  caught  anywhere  in  the  lake. 
Numerous  tributary  streams  are  well- 
stocked  with  fish  and  with  fly  or  spin- 
ner a  goodly  toll  may  be  taken. 

Red  Eagle  Lake.  This  lake  is  easily 
accessible  by  trail.  It  is  located  eight 
miles  southwest  from  St.  Mary  Chalets 


Thoroughfare  Connecting  Lake  Mc  Dermott  and  Lake  Josephine,  Glacier 

National   Park. 


In  all  my  experience  I  have  never  seen 
fish  put  up  such  a  fight,  pound  for 
pound,  as  they  do  in  Glacier  Park.  The 
cold  water  from  the  glaciers  seems  to 
enhance  their  vitality  and  develop  their 
fighting  instinct. 

North  Fork  of  Cut  Bank  Creek.  Cut- 
throat inhabit  this  section,  and  the  fish- 
erman who  wades  the  center  of  the 
stream  and  fishes  with  skill  is  sure  of 
a  well-filled  creel.  High  waders  are  re- 
quired to  fish  many  of  the  streams  and 
lakes  of  the  park. 


on  the  east  side  of  Red  Eagle  Moun- 
tain. This  is  one  of  the  best;  fishing 
spots  in  the  park.  To  reach  it  you  can 
use  horses  or  go  on  foot.  Here  are  Cut- 
throat, Rainbow  and  Dolly  Varden 
Trout. 

McDermott,  Josephine  and  Grinnell 
Lakes.  These  lakes  are  situated  near 
the  Many  Glacier  Hotel,  about  fifty-five 
miles  north  of  Glacier  Park  Station. 
These  lakes  are  famous  for  their  Cut- 
throat, Eastern  Brook  and  Rainbow 
Trout.  They  are  literally  alive  with 
them.     They  form  a  chain  of  glacier- 


TOURING   YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING    53 


fed  lakes,  the  water  source  being  the 
melted  snow  and  ice  of  Grennell  Gla- 
cier. The  trail  from  the  Hotel  which 
is  situated  at  the  lower  end  of  Lake 
McDermott  skirts  the  edges  of  the  three 
lakes.  A  two-mile  walk  takes  you  to 
Josephine  Lake  and  three  miles  south- 
west is  Lake  Grinnell,  all  being  con- 
nected by  streams.  Discharging  from 
the  face  of  Grinnell  Glacier,  three  large 
cataracts  tumble  their  waters  down  the 
steep  slope  into  the  upper  lake.    These 


We  then  decided  to  troll  and  after  hav- 
ing used  various  spoons  without  suc- 
cess, changed  to  a  "Mirror  Spoon" 
which  we  had  purchased  in  Spokane, 
Washington,  several  years  previously, 
and  used  with  considerable  success  in 
lakes  tributary  to  that  city.  This  prov- 
ed a  powerful  killer.  My  son  and  I  both 
trolled,  and  as  he  was  manipulating  the 
"Mirror  Spoon"  he  caught  all  the  fish, 
ten  in  number,  averaging  two  pounds 
each,  in  approximately  one  hour's  time. 


Rainbow  Trout  caught  by  the  Author  in  Lake  Josephine,  Glacier 

National   Park. 


lakes  have  a  setting  of  mountain  and 
forest  and  are  remarkable  for  their 
beauty.  During  mid-day  they  look  like 
mirrors  set  in  emerald  and  gold. 

We  rented  a  boat  at  the  hotel  and 
fished  Lake  McDermott  one  evening, 
and  on  a  "Queen  of  the  Water"  fly 
caught  ten  Cut-throat  Trout  in  a  very 
short  time.  They  averaged  two  pounds 
each.  Some  of  the  auto  campers  had  a 
good  meal  that  evening. 

The  following  morning  we  fly-fished 
for  about  an  hour,  but  never  got  a  rise. 


besides  losing  several  beauties.  The 
man  who  had  charge  of  the  boat  livery 
at  the  hotel,  when  shown  the  spoon, 
declared  he  had  never  seen  one  before. 
It  consisted  of  broken  pieces  of  mirror 
brazed  on  the  concave  surface  of  the 
spoon,  the  convexity  being  highly  nick- 
led.  It  can  be  bought  from  the  Jen- 
sen King  Bird  Company,  Spokane, 
Washington,  the  best  size  being  No.  2 
or  No.  3. 

The  next  day  we  fished  Lake  Jose- 
phine and  using  the  "Mirror  Spoon"  and 
flies  caught  twenty  Rainbow  Trout  av- 


54 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


eraging  over  two  x)ounds  each,  cleaned. 
These  were  all  caught  in  one  and  one- 
half  hours.  .  .  The  fishing  in  Grinnell 
Lake  is  just  as  good,  if  not  better.  .  . 
Truly,  a  Charmed  Land  for  the  auto 
camper ! 

Cracker  Lake.  This  lake  is  seven 
miles  by  trail  to  the  south  of  the  hotel. 
The  trail  follows  Canyon  Creek  to  its 


Sherburne  Lake.  This  lake  about 
seven  miles  east  of  Many  Glacier  Ho- 
tel is  literally  alive  with  Pike,  Lake  Su- 
perior Whitefish,  Rainbow  and  Cut- 
throat Trout.  Pike  are  readily  taken 
with  the  spoon. 

Lake  McDonald.  This  lake  is  the  gem 
of  the  west  side  of  the  Continental  Di- 
vide, located  in  McDonald  Valley.  From 


Black  Bass  caught  at  Williams  Lake  near  Spokane,  Washington. 


source  in  Cracker  Lake  at  the  head  of 
the  canyon  formed  by  the  walls  of  Mt. 
Allen  and  Mt.  Siyeh.  The  trail  is  a  fas- 
cinating one,  crossing  and  recrossing 
the  turbulent  twistings  of  Canyon 
Creek.  The  canyon  ends  abruptly  at 
the  highly  colored  perpendicular  walls 
of  Mt.  Siyeh  where  farther  progress  is 
blocked.  Forests  grow  to  the  very  edge 
of  the  lake.  Imagine  such  a  beautiful 
setting  while  you  are  casting  the  fly 
and  matching  your  skill  against  Eastern 
Brook  and  Cut-throat  Trout  in  the 
stream  and  lake. 


a  rowboat  you  can  try  your  luck  with  a 
fly  casting  rod,  or  by  trolling  with  a 
spoon  in  the  shadows  of  its  wooded 
shores.  Here  rowboats  and  "Evinrude" 
motor  boats  can  be  secured. 

Avalanche  Lake,  nine  miles  by  trail 
to  the  northeast,  and  Trout  Lake,  eight 
miles  to  the  northwest  of  Glacier  Ho- 
tel, (Lewis')  are  two  of  the  best  trout 
lakes  in  the  park,  and  may  be  fished 
with  fine  results.  Rates  for  guides  and 
horses  is  $4.00  per  person  if  three  or 
more  go  together. 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING    55 


There  is  excellent  fishing  in  all  the 
numerous  lakes  in  the  valleys  north  of 
Lake  McDonald. 

I  have  simply  mentioned  a  few  of 
the  more  easily  accessible  lakes  in  which 
to  fish,  but  the  fact  remains  that  there 
are  scores  of  other  lakes  and  streams 
that  are  abundantly  supplied  with  trout. 


exciting;  the  stream  is  very  swift  and 
the  trout  very  game. 

The  flies  generally  used  are  the  Black 
Gnat,  Professor,  Brown  and  Gray  Hack- 
le, Royal  Coachman,  Queen  of  Waters, 
White  Miller  and  Silver  Doctor.  The 
trout  rise  to  the  fly  during  June,  July 
and  August,  July  and  August  being  the 


Black    Bass    caue:ht   at   Hayden    Lake, 

Idaho. 


There  are  no  bass  in  the  lakes  of  the 
park.  The  only  bass  lake  that  I  know 
of,  near  the  park,  is  situated  a  few 
miles  west  of  Belton,  called  Granite 
Lake.  Boatmen  may  also  be  hired  for 
a  fishing  trip  down  the  Middle  Fork  of 
the  Flathead  River  as  far  as  Columbia 
Falls.    I  assure  you  this  would  be  very 


best  months.  Early  in  June  and  in 
September,  spinners  with  and  without 
meat  bait  or  salmon  eggs  are  used.  For 
trolling  in  the  lakes,  a  "Mirror  Spoon" 
and  South  Bend  Fluted  Spoon  (without 
feathers)  No.  3,  are  perhaps  the  best, 
although  Kewell-Stewart  and  Wilson 
may  be  used. 


56 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY   AUTOMOBILE 


For  the  large  Mackinaw,  fasten  con- 
siderable lead  by  means  of  an  extra  line 
about  fifteen  feet  above  the  tackle  and 
fish  deep. 

The  park  has  streams  full  of  crooks 
and  turns,  with  eddies  at  every  turn, 
and  a  hole  that  looks  better  than  the 
last  at  every  crook.  They  are  ideal  for 
the  man  who  cares  not  for  getting  wet 
— with  overhanging  foliage  and  buried 


Badger,  Fishtrap,  Newman  and  Hau- 
ser.  No  better  Bass  lakes  are  to  be 
found  anywhere.  Live  minnows  are 
the  best  for  bait,  but  fine  catches  are 
made  with  the  "Yellow  Tango"  and 
"Wilson's  Fluted  Wobbler". 

Deer  Lake  and  Loon  Lake,  north  of 
Spokane,  contain  Bass,  Perch  and  Mack- 
inaw Trout.  Mackinaws  have  been 
caught  weighing  thirty-five  pounds. 


Richard  Klussman  Richard  Hall 

Black  Bass  caught  at  head  of  Coeur  d'Alene  Lake,  Idaho. 


snags  to  conceal  the  vigilant  trout,  this 
is  a  fisherman's  delight. 

Spokane,  Washington.  Within  a  few 
hours  ride  from  the  city  are  innumera- 
ble streams  and  lakes  filled  with  East- 
ern Brook,  Cut-throat,  Rainbow  and 
Mackinaw  Trout.  Transplanted  fisn 
such  as  the  big-mouth  Black  Bass^ 
Perch  and  Crappie  thrive  wonderfully 
in  these  lakes,  and  when  found  in  the 
same  waters  that  provide  excellent 
trout  fishing,  a  genuine  paradise  for 
fishermen  has  been  found.  Some  of  the 
lakes  in  the  immediate  vicinity  contain- 
ing   bass     and    Perch     are    Williams, 


The  Spokane  River,  Little  Spokane 
and  Deadman  Creek  afford  Cut-throat 
and  Eastern  Brook  Trout  fishing. 

Coeur  d,'Alene,  Idaho.  The  tourist 
with  sporting  proclivities  in  his  blood 
would  do  well  to  linger  here  a  while. 
Eight  miles  to  the  north  is  Hayden 
Lake,  well-stocked  with  Cut-throat 
Trout,  Black  Bass  and  Perch.  The  lake 
is  wooded  to  its  shores  and  is  one  of  the 
most  delightful  lakes  in  the  county. 
Rowboats  and  minnows  are  available. 

Twenty  miles  to  the  south  at  the 
head  of  Coeur  d'Alene  Lake  is  found 


TOURING  YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING     57 


excellent  bass  fishing.  Here  also,  with-  Several  steamers  leave  Coeur  d'Alene 
in  a  stone's  throw  of  the  St.  Joe  River,  mornings  and  late  afternoon,  for  Chat- 
which  empties  into  the  lake,  are  located  colet.  This  is  one  of  my  favorite  fish- 
Chatcolet  Lake  and  Round  Lake,  which  ing  grounds,  and  many  times  have  I  re- 
are  literally  alive  with  Bass  and  Perch,  turned  with  the  limit. 


Cut-throat  Trout  caught  by  Author  near  Coeur  d'Alene,  Idaho. 


58 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


DISTINCTION   BETWEEN 

NATIONAL   FORESTS  AND  NATIONAL    PARKS 


Many  persons  do  not  realize  the  dif- 
ference between  a  National  Forest  and  a 
National  Park. 

A  National  Forest  Reserve  is  pri- 
marily used  for  saw-mills  and  cattle- 
grazing,  while  a  National  Park  is  a  re- 
gion wholly  educational  and  recreation- 
al for  your  children  and  yourselves.  The 
National  Forest  Reservaitions  are  set 
apart  for  economic  ends — it  is  a  com- 
mercial proposition.  They  are  great" 
natural  laboratories  wherein  are  demon- 
strated on  a  large  scale,  the  interesting 
principles  of  scientific  forestry-  But 
reforesting  of  denuded  watersheds,  fire 
protection,  regulated  cutting  of  tim- 
ber and  grazing  of  live-stock  are  not 
permitted  to  interfere  with  the  develop- 
ment of  their  unlimited  facilities  foi 
the  recreation  of  the  tourist,  the  camp- 
er and  sportsman. 

The  camper  is  free  to  pitch  his  tent 
where  he  may  choose  and  stay  as  long 
as  he  likes.  Tourists  are  required  to 
completely  extinguish  their  campfires 
before  leaving,  and  maintain  sanitary 
camp  grounds.  Fish,  birds  and  big 
game  may  be  taken  in  these  forests 
during  the  open  season,  but  a  license 
is  required.  The  National  Forests  are 
in  charge  of  the  United  States  Forest 
Service,  a  Division  of  the  Department 
of  Agriculture. 

A  National  Park  is  an  open-air  mu- 
seum set  apart  by  Congress  to  pre- 
serve scenery,  trees  and  nature's  handi- 
work exactly  as  nature  made  it,  and 
dedicated  as  a  playground  for  the  peo- 
ple. The  idea  is  not  commercial  devel- 
opment aloncr  even  conservative  and 
constructive  lines,  but  absolute  preser- 
vation in  a  state  of  nature.  No  tree 
is  cut  excent  to  make  way  for  road, 
trail  or  hotel  to  enable  the  visitor  to 


penetrate  and  live  among  nature's  se- 
crets. In  National  Parks  the  game  is 
protected  and  hunting  is  strictly  pro- 
hibited at  all  times,  but  fishing  is  per- 
mitted without  a  license  during  the 
park  season. 

Another  distinction  which  should  be 
made  is  the  difference  between  National 
Parks  and  National  Monuments.  The 
National  Park  is  created  by  Congress 
upon  the  assumption  that  it  is  a  su- 
preme example  of  its  kind  and  with  the 
purpose  of  developing  it  for  the  occu- 
pancy and  enjoyment  of  the  pubhc.  .  .  . 
The  National  Monument  is  made  by 
presidential  proclamation  to  conserve 
an  area  or  object  of  historical,  ethnolog- 
ical or  scientific  interest.  It  is  a  scen- 
ic and  educational  reservation. 

All  National  Parks  and  National 
Monuments  are  in  charge  of  the  Na- 
tional Park  Service,  a  Division  of  the 
Department  of  the  Interior. 

Losses  from  forest  fires  are  enormous. 
Directly  or  indirectly  every  citizen 
bears  part  of  the  loss  and  should,  there- 
fore, interest  himself  in  reducing  the 
damage.  You  can  do  so  by  being  care- 
ful with  fire  yourself,  and  warning  oth- 
ers to  be  careful  in  the  woods.  Forest 
fires  also  ruin  fishing  and  hunting,  and 
destroy  all  tv»e  attractiveness  of  the 
country  for  the  camper  and  nature 
lover. 

Don't  throw  awaj'-  lighted  matches, 
cigars,  cigarettes,  or  knock  the  heel  out 
of  a  pipe  near  inflamable  material.  Don't 
start  fires  in  improper  places,  and  above 
all  things,  thoroughly  put  out  your  fire, 
— be  sure  that  there  is  not  a  spark  left. 

RemembeP,  if  you  desire  you  can, 
for  a  small  fee,  secure  a  permit  for  a 
term  of  years  to  build  a  summer  home 


TOURING   YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING  AND   FISHING    59 


on  a  specified  piece  of  ground  in  the 
Forest  Reserve.  The  length  of  this 
lease  can  be  for  as  long  as  thirty  years, 
but  not  for  more.  When  this  term-per- 
mit expires,  the  holder  is  the  preferred 
person  in  reissuing  the  permit.  No  ti- 
tle to  land  passes  to  the  permittee  in 
this  transaction.  He  may,  however, 
sell  his  property,  which  is  in  the  form  of 
buildings  and  similar  improvements,  at 
any  time,  and  the  permit  is  then  trans- 
ferred to  the  new  owner. 

From  Glacier  Park  we  started  on  our 
long  journey  home,  a  distance  of  2,150 
miles,  to  Toledo,  Ohio.  So  at  last  the 
West  began  to  slip  behind  us.  There 
is  little  of  the  "wild  and  woolly"  west 
left.  The  trader  and  trapper — the  pio- 
neers of  the  old  West  have  vanished. 

Irrigation,  wheat,  the  parcelling  out 
of  the  Indian  Reservations  into  allot- 
ments, the  homesteads,  the  devastated 
forests,  all  spell  the  doom  of  the  most 
picturesque  period  of  American  devel- 
opment. The  cow  puncher  in  his  gor- 
geous chaps,  the  large  cattle  and  sheep 
ranches,  the  pack  train  winding  its  de- 
vious way  along  the  trail,  the  trail  it- 
self, and  the  Indians,  as  well  as  the 
wild  game,  are  almost  a  thing  of  the 
past. 

Just  east  of  the  park  we  passed 
through  the  Blackfeet  Indian  Reserva- 
tion. The  quaint  names  of  the  moun- 
tains and  lakes  of  Glacier  Park  were  be- 
stowed on  them  by  these  Indians,  to 
whom  the  region  once  belonged. 

While  passing  along  we  noticed  how 
horses  stood  in  pairs,  from  force  of 
habit,  head  to  tail,  leaning  their  necks 
across  each  other's  flanks,  from  remin- 
iscence of  the  preceding  cold  winter,  or 
perhaps  in  anticipation  of  the  next. 

We  traveled  east  over  the  Custer  Bat- 
tlefield Highway,  passing  through 
Browning,  Chouteau,  Great  Falls  and 
Lewistown  to  Roundup.  Between  Great 
Falls  and  Lewistown  the  route  passed 
through  a  great  wheat  country  where 


dry  farming  is  extensively  practiced,  al- 
though considerable  alfalfa  is  grown 
in  the  valleys  where  irrigation  is  avail- 
able. This  year  the  wheat  crop  only 
averaged  about  seven  bushels  per  acre, 
due  to  the  large  swarms  of  grasshop- 
pers devastating  the  crop.  We  accumu- 
lated about  two  bushels  of  grasshop- 
pers in  our  machine,  during  the  diuve 
of  some  three  hours  through  this  re- 
gion. 

Montana's  prosperity  lies  in  the  won- 
derful natural  resources  of  the  State. 
The  essential  industries  are  mining, 
lumbering  in  the  western  part,  stock 
raising  and  agriculture,  but  oil  and 
gas,  of  which  Lewistown  and  Roundup 
are  the  logical  centers,  are  destined  from 
now  on  to  occupy  a  greater  amount  of 
attention  than  the  other  mineral  re- 
sources of  the  State.  Lewistown  has 
oil  refineries,  and  the  Cat  Creek  oil  dis- 
trict, one  of  the  largest  in  Montana,  is 
located  a  short  distance  east  of  the  city. 

At  Roundup  we  deserted  the  Custer 
Battlefield  Highway  and  toured  by  way 
of  the  Electric  Highway,  one  of  the 
best  State  Highways  in  Montana,  pass- 
ing through  Mussel  Shell  and  Thebes 
to  Forsythe,  where  we  connected  with 
and  continued  our  trip  over  the  Yellow- 
stone Trail  and  the  National  Parks 
Highway  to  Fallon,  Montana,  where 
they   diverge. 

Between  Mussel  Shell  and  Melstone, 
for  miles  along  the  road  we  saw  count- 
less numbers  of  sage-hens,  this  being 
a  wonderful  hunting  country. 

Leaving  Fallon  we  traveled  east  ov- 
er the  National  Parks  Highway,  by  way 
of  Glendive,  Bismarck,  Fargo  and  St. 
Cloud  to  Minneapolis  and  St.  Paul. 

At  Glendive  they  have  a  tourist  camp 
with  all  modern  conveniences,  besides 
having  an  immense  out-door  swimming 
pool.  After  passing  through  Sentinel 
Butte,  fifty  miles  east  of  Glendive,  we 
entered  the  Bad  Lands  of  North  Da- 


M 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  NORTHWEST  BY  AUTOMOBILE 


kota,  a  bewildering  maze  of  eroded 
hills  and  buttes,  of  fanciful  shape  and 
coloring.  The  view  here  is  more  won- 
derful than  the  view  had  been  over  the 
Yellowstone  Trail  farther  south.  The 
roads  through  the  Bad  Lands  were  ex- 
cellent and  we  made  good  time. 

Just  east  of  Medora,  in  the  heart  of 
the  Bad  Lands,  we  crossed  a  bridge  over 
the  Little  Missouri.  Nearby  was  locat- 
ed the  famous  Theodore  Roosevelt 
Ranch. 

From  Mandan  to  Bismarck  the  Mis- 
souri River  must  be  crossed  by  ferry. 

Aftter  leaving  Bismarck  we  passed 
through  the  great  "wheat  belt"  of  North 
Dakota  and  Minnesota,  and  soon  arriv- 
ed in  Minneapolis. 

Passing  through  St.  Paul,  we  contin- 
ued southeast  by  way  of  Hastings  and 
Rochester  to  LaCrosse,  Wisconsin.  At 
Rochester  is  located  the  world-famous 
Mayo  Surgical  Clinic. 

LaCrosse  is  located  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Mississippi  River,  and  in  order 
to  reach  it  from  the  bluff  on  the  west 
side,  we  had  to  descend  a  steep  grade 
winding  and  twisting  around  the  hill- 


side for  quite  a  distance  before  reach- 
ing bottom.  Here  compression  should 
be  utilized.  After  passing  through  La- 
Crosse, we  followed  a  steep  grade  up  a 
canyon,  skirting  along  the  edge  of  a 
picturesque  stream  for  several  miles, 
and  soon  reached  the  top  of  the  bluff 
on  the  east  side.  The  thirty  mile  drive 
from  LaCrosse  to  Viroqua  was  the  most 
delightful,  from  a  scenic  standpoint, 
that  we  passed  over  since  leaving  Gla- 
cier Park.  Mile  after  mile  the  road 
wound  up  and  down  hills  covered  with 
dense  hardwood  timber,  and  crossed  nu- 
merous beautiful  valleys  where  much 
tobacco  is  grown. 

From  Viroqua  we  drove  to  Madison, 
where  we  left  the  National  Parks  High- 
way, taking  a  short  cut  through  Elk- 
horn  to  Chicago,,  arriving  in  Toledo, 
Ohio,  two  days  later,  concluding  our 
trip  which  covered  over  seven  thousand 
miles. 

And  so  the  Trail — after  having  wound 
over  crooked  and  alluring  highways, 
ever  intimate  with  the  vast  open  spaces, 
the  forests,  mountains  and  streams — 
ended,  as  it  always  does,  in  a  definite 
place — in  this  case,  at  home. 


TOURING   YELLOWSTONE   AND   GLACIER   PARKS— CAMPING    AND   FISHING    61 


THE   COST 


Perhaps  the  tourist  would  hke  to 
know  what  such  a  trip  costs.  Before 
leaving  Toledo,  I  had  the  engine  tuned 
up,  oil  changed  and  brakes  re-lined.  Our 
camp  equipment  complete  cost  us  ap- 
proximately $300.00.  We  started  with 
a  set  of  new  Goodyear  Cord  Tires,  which 
cost  about  $200.00,  and  which  have  cov- 
ered 3,000  miles  since  our  return.  The 
speedometer  registered  7,000  miles,  in- 
cluding all  side  trips.  Gasoline  for  the 
complete  trip  cost  $186.50,  oil  and 
grease  $25.00,  repairs  $30.00. 

Food  for  five  adults  for  three  months 
cost  $170.00.  The  low  cost  of  food  was 
probably  due  to  some  extent  to  the  large 
number  of  fish  caught  in  the  West. 

Entrance  fees  to  Parks,  shipping  au- 
tomobile from  Belton  to  Glacier  Park 
Station,  rowboats  and  incidentals  per- 
haps cost  about  $100.00. 

The   entire   trip,   including   the   stay 


of  several  weeks  at  our  summer  home  on 
Coeur  d'Alene,  Idaho,  cost  a  total  of 
$1,011.50. 

Take  it  from  me,  you  will  never  regret 
the  time  and  money  spent  on  this  trip, 
through  "America's  Wonderland".  If 
you  are  a  student  of  geology  or  botany, 
a  photographer  of  wild  animals,  a  per- 
sistent fisherman  or  merely  a  lover  of 
freedom  and  adventure,  you  will  find 
that  which  you  seek  in  the  West.  It 
holds  more  marvels,  more  beauties,  more 
surprises,  than  any  other  in  the  world. 
Here  are  streams  and  expansive  lakes, 
where  there  are  abundant  camp  sites, 
an  inexhaustable  wood  supply  and  pure 
ice-cold  water  that  may  be  drunk  with- 
out hesitation,  wherever  you  may  hap- 
pen to  be. 

At  last  I  feel  how  inadequately  I  have 
described  the  West;  how  adequately, 
you  will  know  when  you  make  the  trip. 


iHiiiK<m'««tfq«K!ffliiiw«s^MHkai^ 


IPiTgfflWiM 


iTiHTTJ^if^rFv 


LOAN  PERIOD     1 

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ALL  BOOKS  MAY  BE  RECALLED  AFTER  7  DAYS. 

Please  return  books  early  if  they  are  not  being  used. 


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DUE  AS  STAMPED  BELOW. 


SE»4T0NILL 


HftV  1  9  2000 


Mr.  BERKELEY 


SENT  ON  ILL 


OCT  1  h  im 


U  C.  BERKELEY 


SENT  ON  ILL 


FEB  0  2  2005 


UOfiEBtSLB: 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA,  BERKELEY 
Berkeley,  California  94720-6000 


^<^3   If 


LD  21-lOOm  l,'54(18S7sl6)476 


(7Miuv^KU  DK«^a.  inc. 
Syricutc,  N.  Y. 
Stockton,  Calif. 


M31517a 


